Parrish Construction

Archive for February, 2010

Q—Recently, I’ve noticed a musty smell of damp earth in our crawl space. Is this serious? What can be done about it?

Sunday, February 28th, 2010 Posted in Basements, Building Codes/Regulations, DIY Home Improvements, FAQ, Freezing Temp. Problems, Heating/Cooling, Spring, Ventilation, Waterproofing | No Comments »

A—In the spring, when the rains and irrigation cause the water table to rise, many crawl spaces get damp, and begin to smell. In extreme cases, the humidity can get high enough to support the growth of mold and mildew, ...

Home Energy Audits

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 Posted in Energy-Saving Tips, Green Building Topics, Heating/Cooling, Money-Saving Tips, Seasonal Considerations | 9 Comments »

By Larry Parrish, CR, CGR, CAPS, GACP   I recently signed up for a home energy audit on my own home through Xcel Energy. They offer two versions—comprehensive audit with blower door for $90.00, or an add/option for thermal imaging camera at an ...

Q: We’re about to begin architectural design for a new living room addition on our home. Are there any pitfalls we should watch out for?

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 Posted in Additions, Architecture, Construction Process, FAQ, Interior Design, Money-Saving Tips, Remodels/Additions, Space-Saving/Organization | No Comments »

A: I recommend that you create a detailed plan of furnishings and equipment in all the rooms. Otherwise you may be surprised later to find that your furniture doesn’t fit, or that the room doesn’t function the way you want ...

Timely Home Upgrades

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 Posted in Aging-in-Place & Handicap Mobility, Building Trends, Design Tips, Energy-Saving Tips, Heating/Cooling, Money-Saving Tips, Safety Hazards, Timely Home Upgrades | 2 Comments »

By Annette Parrish- Vice President   In today’s economy, it’s important to maintain and protect the investment you have in your home. If you’re trying to save money now by delaying maintenance, repairs, and upgrades, keep in mind that it will only ...

Q—We have hot-water baseboard heat in our home. We’re planning to add a master bathroom addition, and would like to install radiant heat in the floor. Can we use the existing boiler?

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010 Posted in Additions, Bathrooms, Energy-Saving Tips, FAQ, Flooring, Freezing Temp. Problems, Green Building Topics, Insulation, Money-Saving Tips, Plumbing, Remodeling Concerns, Winter | No Comments »

A—Assuming your boiler has the surplus capacity to handle the extra heating load, you should be able to heat your bathroom floors by using a mixing valve to moderate the water temperature. Radiant floor heating requires somewhat cooler water than ...

Q—We’ve heard about radiant floor heating, and wonder if it would be a good idea for our whole-house remodeling project.

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010 Posted in Construction Costs, Design Tips, Energy-Saving Tips, FAQ, Flooring, Freezing Temp. Problems, Green Building Topics, Heating/Cooling, Home Luxury, Materials- Construction, Money-Saving Tips, Remodels/Additions, Winter | No Comments »

A—I’ll list some of the pros and cons, and let you decide: Radiant heat can be more expensive to install—as much as 20-50% or more. Radiant heat does not provide ductwork for ...

Q—Help! We have a ceiling leak in our cathedral ceiling every winter. We’ve had it checked by a roofer who says the roof is fine. Any suggestions?

Monday, February 8th, 2010 Posted in Drywall Repairs, FAQ, Freezing Temp. Problems, Heating/Cooling, Lighting, Money-Saving Tips, Paint, Roofing/Ceilings, Spring, Structural Issues, Timely Home Upgrades, Ventilation, Waterproofing, Winter | No Comments »

A—The water damage is likely due to humidity inside the house condensing in the cold rafter space (usually the underside of the roof sheeting) and dripping on the insulation and drywall as the weather warms up. This is probably caused ...

Q—On the coldest days, some of the rooms in my house are cold, while others are warm. We have a forced-air system. Is there anything we can do?

Sunday, February 7th, 2010 Posted in FAQ, Heating/Cooling, Insulation, Ventilation, Windows & Doors, Winter | No Comments »

A—There are several things you can try. Many older homes have inadequate cold-air returns. A furnace can’t force air into a room unless there is a way for the same amount of air to exit the room. In large, open ...

Q—We installed a new front door last summer, and it has warped so much it won’t close properly—more than an inch. What went wrong?

Sunday, February 7th, 2010 Posted in Exterior Remodeling, FAQ, Money-Saving Tips, Paint, Spring, Timely Home Upgrades, Waterproofing, Windows & Doors | No Comments »

A—Wood will warp when one side dries out more than the other, or if the finish on one side shrinks more than the other side. As wood dries, it shrinks, and expands again as it absorbs moisture. Door manufacturers recommend ...

Q—Can you please describe the difference between a “simulated divided-light” window and a “true divided-light” window?

Saturday, February 6th, 2010 Posted in Energy-Saving Tips, FAQ, Green Building Topics, Interior Design, Lighting, Materials- Construction, Money-Saving Tips, Windows & Doors | No Comments »

A—“True divided-light” or “authentic divided-light” are labels used by manufacturers to describe their modern version of the window which was the standard at the turn of the century, but with modern innovations such as “Low-E” coatings, and insulated glass. These ...
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