Although the list is long, if it becomes routine, it can be
completed in only a few hours, save hundreds on heating bills– and possibly
thousands on home repairs.  Start by thinking of ways cold air gets into
your home: windows, doors, pipes, and other openings. Then think about ways
water might get into the home.

The first few tasks are a ‘must have’ on your winter checklist because they can cause the most problems:

Prevent fires and smoke damage—Have your fireplace and chimney inspected annually.

1) Don’t be left in the cold—Have furnace tuned-up and serviced before you need it;

2)  Avoid frozen pipes—Insulate between pipes and outside walls.  Disconnect garden hoses at outside faucets. If
you leave on vacation, set thermostat at 65 and never turn it off.*

3)  Prevent ice dams–costly damage to the exterior of your home can be caused from ice
dams. Clear gutters and downspouts. Run a hose through each gutter to make sure
gutters and downspouts are clear and water is being channeled away from the
house;

4) Avoid interior leaks—Inspect roof for worn areas and repair them. Cut branches that
may scrape on roof during winter winds

5) Prevent fires and smoke damage—Have your fireplace and chimney inspected and
cleaned annually.

6) Prevent water and equipment damage—Drain your evaporative air conditioner and wrap
or remove

* To prevent frozen pipes, check out our Frozen Pipes Blog and watch Larry’s How-to on YouTube.

The following additional tips will keep your home more comfortable and save you money:

1)  Check doors for leaks; add new weather stripping if necessary

2)  Caulk around windows

3) If glass in windows is not high quality, consider replacing with
insulating panes;  if that is not an option, have storm windows made and  if
that’s still not in the budget, buy an insulator kit and install plastic sheets. You may want to
buy or create insulated curtains to further prevent drafts from windows

4) Replace your home’s furnace filter now and each month throughout
winter.

5) If you have high ceilings, consider putting in a ceiling fan to
help circulate warm air.

6)  Check insulation. If inadequate, blown-in or blanket insulation
can be added. Some government rebates may apply.

7)  Carefully feel the temperature of your pipes; if they are warm, wrap
with a blanket (insulation) to save energy;

8)  Go alternative: solar panels are becoming more common, but how
about a biomass stove, a small wind turbine or a geothermal heat pump? Research
your options and find the best solution for your home.

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How many bottles of rosemary would you find in your spice cabinet or drawer if you looked right now? If you’ve ever purchased an herb or spice you thought you were out of, only to find that you already had two opened containers at home, maybe the problem is lack of organization.

Whether you have a spice cabinet or a drawer, you’ll find the spices you need more quickly if you just file them—you know, alphabetically?  It will save you from moving things around every time you want a spice or herb. When you put the bottle away, just remember to ‘re-file’ it properly. The few seconds it takes to think about the proper place to put it will save many minutes of time retrieving it when you need it again.

Speaking of rosemary, you’ve got to try the Rosemary Red Potatoes recipe. I’ve tried this and it’s really good and most importantly, it’s very easy and quick.  For more great recipes go to: allrecipes.com

Prep Time: 5 Min

Cook Time: 25 Min

Ready In: 30 Min

Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 pounds small red potatoes, quartered
• 1 small onion, quartered
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt

Directions

In a bowl, combine the potatoes, onion, oil, rosemary, garlic and garlic salt; toss to coat. Transfer to a foil-lined 15-in. x 10-in. x 1-in. baking pan. Bake, uncovered, at 425 degrees F for 25-30 minutes or until potatoes are tender and browned. Longer for larger potatoes.

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To prevent this in the future, remove your garden hoses in the winter. Consider replacing your sillcocks with ones that will drain the extension tubes even with the hose attached. They cost a little more, but are well worth it.

We welcome your comments below. Do you have a question for Larry Parrish, CR, CGR, CAPS, GACP? E-mail info@parrishbuilt.com.

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• By Larry Parrish, CR, CGR, CAPS, GACP

• Few rooms in the American home have changed as much in recent years as the master bathroom. Thirty years ago, if a house even had a master bathroom, it was too small to brush your teeth in without bumping your elbows on the wall. Today’s show homes feature master bath suites large enough to need intercoms between the sink and the bathtub. The advent of two-income families and more disposable income have driven the concept of the master bath as a sanctuary. Tired of bumping into each other while trying to get ready for the day, many couples are opting to expand their bathroom for convenience and comfort. Likewise, returning home after a busy day, couples are finding a well-appointed bathroom is a good place to unwind and relax.

• Remodeling can be a sound financial decision. According to Remodeling Magazine’s 2010 Cost vs. Value Report, in our area, a master bathroom will recover 71% of it’s cost upon resale—among the highest returns on investment for any type of remodel. In these days of aging “Baby Boomers” and “Empty Nesters”, the master bathroom may be more important than extra bedrooms for resale, opening up the possibility of expanding the Master Suite into an adjacent bedroom. Dramatic improvements can be realized by borrowing as little as a foot or two from an adjacent room or closet. This is often enough to allow rearranging the fixtures or adding a shower.

• The shower is a popular target for improvement. His and Hers models are popular, with rain bars, double shower heads, thermostatically-controlled water temperature, and a seating bench among the favorite options. Large recessed caddies for shampoo, razor and soap are popular, as are shaving niches for him, with fog-free mirrors. Glass block walls bring in the light with style. If space permits, the shower can be designed without doors or curtains, providing convenience of access without barriers, and no doors to clean! The new “frameless” shower doors are a dramatic alternative—easy to maintain, and very high quality.

• With careful design, a shower can include steam, providing a great way to relax after a hard day. Small, self-contained steam generators can be hidden under a vanity or in a nearby closet. Special steam doors and proper tile installation insure a trouble-free amenity. If you’re ready to pull out all the stops, there are even “environmental chambers” available to provide for music, sauna, steam, waterfalls, whirlpools, hydro-massage, “rain” and “warm breezes”—all programmable.

• Bathers have plenty of options also. Whirlpool tubs, extra-deep soaking tubs, even tubs with doors in the side for barrier-free access. Some tubs also offer timer control, so you can arrive home or arise to a freshly-filled bath of just the right temperature. Add a waterfall faucet, separate shower wand, and built-in speakers, and you may never want to get out! Tubs for two are almost standard equipment for the well-appointed bath.

• If you have the space, (and the money), the ultimate solution to the crowded bath is separate His and Hers bathrooms. He can leave the seat up as often as he likes, and even have a urinal. (There is a new urinal, which is recessed into the wall with a fold-up lid that flushes with only a few ounces of water). She can have a clean seat, a bidet, and paper on the roll. (A female client asked me recently—how many men does it take to change a toilet paper roll? A: No one knows—it’s never been done!)

The frosted glass window adds natural light to this modern bathroom

• Light is a scarce commodity in many older bathrooms. Skylights, plant windows, clerestory windows, or glass block can bring in plenty of daylight without compromising privacy. There is even a new window which switches from clear to opaque (and back) with the flip of a switch—perfect for providing a great view over a bathtub, with privacy when you need it. The default condition is opaque, ensuring security in case of power failure.

• Recessed lighting incorporated into a skylight well gives the illusion of daylight at night. Fluorescent lighting with the proper selection of tube can provide full-spectrum color and even illumination, while minimizing heat. The proper balance and color of lighting in front of mirrors is important to the proper application of makeup.

• For a bathroom that’s really “hot”, add heated mirrors to prevent fogging, heated tile floors for toasty toes, or heated towel bars for luxury. For pure fun, add a television, stereo, fireplace, or aquarium.

• Convenience features might include a telephone, a dressing vanity, or an extra-tall toilet to give the knees a break. Two lavatories are virtually a necessity in modern master baths. Many people are opting for taller vanities, usually 36 inches, to save their backs. For practicality, add lots of storage, a clothes hamper, laundry chute, or a walk-in closet (or two).

• For a nostalgic look, claw-foot tubs and pedestal sinks are available either as refinished authentic period pieces or contemporary improvementson the originals. On the modern end of the spectrum, try cantilevered glass shelves supporting conical glass lavatories on a mirrored wall.

• For surfaces, marble, granite, or synthetic solid-surface products such as Corian© are easy to care for and hold their value well. Other good choices include ceramic tile, limestone, slate, and plastic laminates. Larger tile sizes reduce grout maintenance and provide a more up-scale look. Inexpensive field tile can be accented with deco-tiles for an expensive look on a limited budget. If you’re looking for ideas, there are two books I can recommend to you—Bathrooms, by Chris Casson Madden (Clarkson Potter/Publishers), and Kitchens and Bathrooms by Sunset Publishing, both available at local bookstores. If you take the time for good design, your bathroom should provide good, clean fun for many years to come!

• Reprinted with the kind permission of the Boulder Daily Camera.

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Geotechnical (soils) engineers typically recommend a minimum 10 percent slope for at least ten feet away from a foundation to provide adequate drainage (12” in ten feet). Due to settling of the backfill near the house, and dams caused by landscaping and sidewalks, few homes retain this drainage over the years.
If possible, restore proper drainage near the house by adding and compacting clay soil near the foundation. Remove, or cut channels in and landscape items that result in damming near the foundation. Also, clean the gutters and downspouts to minimize the possibility of gutters overflowing during rainstorms, and extend downspouts to discharge well away from the foundation. Remove any plant materials that require watering, and adjust sprinkler heads so that they don’t water near the house.

If the source of water is from a rising water table, if may be possible to catch the water before entry with a submersible sump pump in a sump pit under the basement floor. A large enough pump can locally lower the water table, preventing the water from entering the home. Be sure to discharge the pump effluent in the yard, well away from the foundation. It is illegal to discharge ground water into the sanitary sewer system.

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Builders and subcontractors are naturally reluctant to be responsible for installing expensive items for which they’ve made no profit. In many cases, the small profit from installation alone is not enough to warrant the risk of damage and warranty responsibility. The risk of schedule delays is significant, also, because time is money—for the contractor and the homeowner.

A more important consideration is the division of responsibility. If a product supplied by the homeowner fails to perform—such as floor tile that cracks—it can be difficult to determine whether it was the product or the installation that was defective. By having the same company supply and install the product, finger-pointing is eliminated, because the same party is responsible for both material and installation. This peace of mind is probably worth the contractor’s markup on the material.

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The spout delivers water as a slower rate than a regular faucet, and the water is hotter than normal—approximately 190 degrees F instead of the typical 120 degrees from a kitchen faucet. Some models have an adjustable thermostat. The tanks are not pressurized, but the special faucet replaces water in the tank as it is withdrawn. If you have a water filter system for the regular faucet, you may want to supply the dispenser with filtered water as well. Hot water dispensers are very convenient for preparing hot drinks, sauces and soups, for warming baby bottles, or filling a hot water bottle. They range in price from about $100 to $400, plus installation.

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• Paint or re-finish the existing cabinets, and replace the hardware. For a slightly higher budget, replace the doors and drawer-fronts with new ones, and re-face the cabinet bodies.
• Add new pullout trays to improve storage efficiency.
• Refrigerators and dishwashers can be painted at an automotive body shop. Many dishwashers have extra panels or reversible color panels hidden behind the front one to allow you to change the color at no cost.
• Add a new light fixture or two to make the room more pleasant and efficient.
• Change the sink and faucet. Stainless steel is durable, classic, and available at reasonable cost.
• Replacing the countertops is fairly easy and inexpensive, especially if you use plastic laminate. In some cases, with the proper technique, it can be applied over the existing tops.
• Do the work in stages. If you can’t manage the whole job at once, replace one or two things for instant gratification. Budget to do something each year and you’ll soon have an all-new kitchen.

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While there is a small fee for inspection services, the delay in getting started is often the biggest problem. Boulder County is currently quoting two to six weeks to issue a permit for remodeling, and the city of Boulder is quoting up to four weeks. Please understand if your contractor can’t start work before the permit is issued. If you are tempted to ignore the regulation, don’t! And please don’t ask your contractor to do the work without a permit–his license and livelihood are on the line. If your contractor agrees to such an arrangement, he is not professional, and that should make you nervous.

If you’re thinking of doing work yourself without a permit, consider the owner’s disclosure statement that Realtors require sellers to sign upon listing a property. When you sell, you will be asked to sign a legal document disclosing (among other things) if you have knowledge of any work on your home that was done without a permit. If you disclose such work, rest assured the prospective buyer will require you to have the work inspected, and correct any non-conforming work at your expense. You might as well follow the rules up-front, and enjoy knowing your project is done safely and legally.