Parrish Construction » Historic Homes

Q—The brick planter box on our house has a white, chalky stain on it. We have tried scrubbing it off, but it keeps coming back. What causes it, and what can be done about it?

Parrish — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 22:24:55 +0000

A—The white stain is called efflorescence, and is caused by salts that have been transported from within the brick and mortar by moisture in the brick, and deposited on the surface by evaporation. The stains are cosmetic, and not harmful. Professionals remove efflorescence with diluted muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, and a pressure washer or a brush. I should caution you that muriatic acid is dangerous, and should be used only with extreme caution.

The moisture in the brick, however, is a problem. It can destroy the wall by freezing and spalling, and must be eliminated to prevent damage, and further staining. In your case, the moisture is likely due to missing or ineffective waterproofing of the inside of the planter walls. When the soil in your planter is wetted, either by rain, snow, or irrigation, the bricks and mortar absorb moisture and carry salts to the surface.

Here are three possible solutions:

1) Remove all the plants and soil and carefully waterproof the inside of the planter, providing “weep-holes” (openings in the mortar joint) in the bottom courses of brick. The clean and dry brick can then be coated with a waterproofing compound by brush or sprayer, or covered with a membrane such as EPDM or “Ice and Water Shield”. Fill most of the planter with gravel to insure good drainage. Use of a permeable filter (made just for this purpose) against the inside of the brick will also improve drainage

2) Remove enough soil to install separate water-tight containers to contain your plants and the damp soil. I’ve seen them made of copper or galvanized metal. They could also be constructed of wood and lined with a waterproof membrane.

3) Abandon the plants, and cover the planters with a stone cap to shed the water.

Need help? Give us a call and we can help you with all your landscaping needs. That’s what we’re here for! 303-444-0033.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Personalize Your Home to Meet Your Changing Needs

Parrish — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:31:36 +0000

By Larry Parrish- CR, CGR, CAPS, GACP

Don’t be moved by age. According to the American Association of Retired Persons (AARP), older homeowners overwhelmingly prefer to age-in-place, meaning to live at home safely, independently and comfortably.

With Universal Design principals, this has become increasingly easy. You can make your house your home-for-life. The changes needed, often simple and small, are cheaper than moving into assisted living facilities.

As one of my clients says: “Ain’t movin’ ‘til they take me out in a pine box”. As a Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS), here is my advice on what you need to consider if you feel the same way:

Installing grab bars in bathroom showers can ensure safety and prevent falls.

Safety:

Lighting, more of it and higher quality; color corrected bulbs help.
Contrast in surface textures and colors to enable you to distinguish between them.
Compact fluorescent bulbs, cooler to the touch and energy efficient
Scald prevention plumbing fixtures.
Non-slip surface treatments in baths and bath rooms
Electronic ignition to replace pilot lights, so you are not kneeling with a match and your reading glasses!

Ease of Use:

Look ahead. Update now to prevent having to deal with it when you are less able: new major appliances; re-roof; re-side to prevent regular paint jobs. Low maintenance is your goal.
Shop with a critical eye. When you replace an appliance, look for convenience in cleaning and servicing.
Heights: cabinets can be designed now to be removed later to create an under the counter knee space to accommodate wheel chairs. Raise some appliances, such as dishwashers, to load and unload without stooping.
Put the master bed and bath on the first floor.
A high maintenance yard is like a high-maintenance person. ‘Nuff said (See ”Upgrading and Modernizing” below).

Independence:

Widen doorways and traffic areas to accommodate walkers and wheelchairs.
Remove levels and steps.
A lever handle puts less demand on your grip than a knob.
Convert space for anticipated live-in help.
Build a network of support: gather around you now (through trusted referrals) the help you need for gardening, heavy house cleaning, shoveling snow, cleaning out gutters, find a good handy man service.
Keyless entries mitigate forgetfulness and afford the ability to change locks easily. They also allow someone to drop in easily and check on you.

Upgrading and Modernizing

While you are at it…Green Up! Many of these changes also provide an opportunity to increase insulation, improve window quality, and use higher efficiency appliances. Sensitivity to cold increases as we age. (We are all familiar with Grandma’s house being very warm.) Furthermore, utility prices will only continue to rise. Commonly, adding insulation and other energy saving ideas costs only an additional 5%. However, the ROI (return on investment) is usually better than 8% immediately, and in the current energy market, even above that.

Use any remodeling opportunity as a Greening Up opportunity as well. You won’t regret it. It will only help in selling your home eventually, too. Xeriscaping is a major boon in at least three ways: your aching back, high water bills and our alpine desert environment. Boulder abounds with xeriscaping experts and many beautiful examples of how gorgeous such landscaping can be.

Remember, with a little planning, you can live at home and live well…for many years to come.

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We always welcome your comments, questions and suggestions. Please feel free to post in the “Comments Box” below.

Xeriscaped, sloped yards require little maintenance and allow ease of access.

Q—We live in an old house. I’m pregnant, and concerned about lead based paint. How can I find out if our house has lead based paint, and how do I remove it?

Parrish — Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:30:04 +0000

A—Many homes built prior to 1978 contain some lead in the paint. Prior to 1950, almost half of all paint contained large amounts of lead. In 1978, the Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of lead in paint for residential application. Lead was most common and concentrated in the type of paint used on wood trim, such as windows, doors, baseboards, and door and window casing. Since you described your house as “old”, there is a good chance it contains some lead. It’s worth noting that paint is not the only source of this poison in our diet. Until recently, lead also was also present in gasoline and the solder used in copper water piping.
Lead-based paint that is in good condition is not usually hazardous. The real danger comes from ingesting or inhaling dust or paint chips containing lead. You can get lead in your body if you inhale dust from sanding or disturbing painted surfaces, eating chips of contaminated paint, inhaling fumes from paint that has been heated with a torch, or putting hands or other objects covered with lead dust in your mouth.
Babies and small children are most as risk of ingesting lead paint dust or chips, and are also most susceptible to poisoning. This is because their growing bodies absorb lead more readily, and their nervous systems are more sensitive to lead. Children with lead poisoning can suffer headaches, slowed growth, damage to their nervous system, hearing problems, and learning difficulties.

Symptoms in adults include high blood pressure, difficulties with pregnancy,

nerve disorders, reproductive problems, memory and concentration problems.

The only way to know if you have problems with lead in your home is to have a lead risk assessment performed by a trained professional. While consumer test kits are widely available, they are not always accurate, and their results can be hard to interpret. If testing discovers a significant lead risk, hire a person trained in lead abatement to remove the hazard. An unqualified person may actually make the problem worse by creating dust and spreading it around.

As a temporary measure, you can reduce exposure to lead by cleaning floors, window sills and other surfaces weekly with a mop or sponge and warm water with a general purpose cleaner. Keep children’s play areas especially clean, and keep children from chewing on painted window sills or wood trim. Clean or remove shoes before entering the home to avoid tracking lead indoors. Lead can contaminate the soil near the house and enter on the shoes, or be ingested by children.Wash children’s hands frequently, especially before meals, and wash their toys, pacifiers and stuffed animals frequently.

If you suspect you or your family have been exposed to lead, a simple blood test can determine the level of lead in your body. These tests are inexpensive and available from many clinics. Ask your doctor. Tests are especially important for smaller children, aged six months to one year.

For more information about lead, you can call the Lead Information Clearinghouse at 1-800-424-Lead, or the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-LEAD-FYI. Request the free pamphlet entitled “Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home”, pamphlet # EPA 747-K-94-001. Information is available on the EPA website

We are an EPA Certified Lead-Safe Contractor which means you can trust us to know how to handle lead paint on your home if you suspect the use of lead paint. See the green section of our blog for more information.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Leaded or Unleaded?

Parrish — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 01:02:44 +0000

By Annette Parrish- Vice President

If your home contains lead paint and you are considering a remodel, you will be pleased to know that Parrish Construction has successfully completed the training and passed the test to be an EPA, Lead-Safe Certified Firm. You can find us on the EPA’s website soon.

As we mentioned in our March e-newsletter, the EPA is now requiring all contractors to be certified before they renovate areas which are known to contain lead paint. Many homes built before 1978 may contain lead paint, but the EPA’s main concern seems to be in homes where children or pregnant women are currently residing, or where children may visit. However, the EPA’s own website clearly states that lead poisoning can cause serious health problems in adults and pets, not just children or pregnant women.

Parrish Construction will continue to conduct lead testing for any buildings we work on which were constructed before 1978, as we have for many years. This practice is to ensure the safety of you and your children, our employees and their families, and children or pregnant women who may visit you, and protect them from potential lead exposure.

To protect yourself from lead exposure and possible fines you should only hire contractors certified by the EPA to perform lead-safe renovation. Lead-safe practices may cost you a little more, but the risks of lead poisoning are just too great. Home safety and your family’s health is not the place to cut corners.

If you have questions about the Parrish Lead-Safe Process, please give us a call at 303-444-0033. We always welcome your comments, questions and suggestions. Please feel free to post in the “Comments Box” below.

Also, be sure to visit our green building page for other environmentally-friendly practices. Or, click here to read more articles and blogs on green building.

Q—Every Spring, we get water in our basement. Is there anything we can do to prevent this from happening again this year?

Parrish — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 02:09:41 +0000

A—In my experience, most water problems in basements are caused by improper channeling of surface water away from the foundation. If water from downspouts, roof runoff, or adjacent landscaping is allowed to pond near the foundation, it can saturate the relatively loose backfill, and enter the basement through the joint between the floor and the foundation, or through cracks in the wall. This problem is exacerbated if lawn or landscape irrigation causes this backfill to become pre-saturated from the irrigation. In a downpour, water can also fill the area wells around basement windows, and leak around the window.

Geotechnical (soils) engineers typically recommend a minimum 10 percent slope for at least ten feet away from a foundation to provide adequate drainage (12” in ten feet). Due to settling of the backfill near the house, and dams caused by landscaping and sidewalks, few homes retain this drainage over the years.
If possible, restore proper drainage near the house by adding and compacting clay soil near the foundation. Remove, or cut channels in and landscape items that result in damming near the foundation. Also, clean the gutters and downspouts to minimize the possibility of gutters overflowing during rainstorms, and extend downspouts to discharge well away from the foundation. Remove any plant materials that require watering, and adjust sprinkler heads so that they don’t water near the house.

If the source of water is from a rising water table, if may be possible to catch the water before entry with a submersible sump pump in a sump pit under the basement floor. A large enough pump can locally lower the water table, preventing the water from entering the home. Be sure to discharge the pump effluent in the yard, well away from the foundation. It is illegal to discharge ground water into the sanitary sewer system.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Q—We just bought a home with a septic system. Is there anything special we need to know or maintenance to perform?

Parrish — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 23:52:18 +0000

A—A septic system consists of two main parts. The septic tank is a watertight vault, usually concrete, that receives the wastewater and separates the solids from the liquid, while digesting the solids. The liquids discharge out the top into a leach field where they either percolate into the ground, or evaporate into the atmosphere, depending on the design. Some systems do both. It’s a good idea not to discharge anything into your waste stream that is difficult for the bacteria in the septic tank to digest, such as paper, because they will fill the tank and require it to be emptied more often. You can buy special toilet paper which is biodegradable, to reduce the frequency of pumping out the tank. Special enzymes are available that you can flush down the toilet to improve the digestion. Avoid flushing compounds such as paint thinner that can kill the friendly bugs in the tank.

Companies that clean and empty septic tanks are listed under “Septic Tanks & Systems-Cleaning” in the Yellow Pages or online. They can recommend a service interval for your situation. It’s also a good idea to avoid irrigating the leach field or fields since that will tend to saturate them and reduce their effectiveness. In some cases, there will be two fields with a manual valve you will need to operate to alternate between the two fields, giving one a chance to “rest” or dry out. Typical switching interval is every six months. If you have such a system, and you forget to switch fields, you’ll know about it when your sewer backs up.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Q—Our hot water heat is noisy, and disturbs our sleep. The plumber told us the noise is normal. Is there anything we can do about it?

Parrish — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:41:22 +0000

A—There are three types of sound that hot water heating makes—hum, gurgle, and pop. Humming is usually caused by vibrations from the circulator pump. I’ve seen this problem with pumps that are larger than necessary, and with pumps that are wearing out. Some plumbers find it easier to install a pump that is too large than to do the calculations necessary for proper sizing. If your pump is correctly sized and in good condition, it may be possible to mask the vibration by judicious use of rubber gaskets and shock mounts to isolate the pump’s vibration from the piping and structural members of the house.

Gurgling sounds are an indication of air bubbles circulating through the pipes with the water. Most systems have air scrubbers that are designed to trap these bubbles and vent them to the atmosphere. It’s possible yours is missing or faulty.

Popping sounds are the result of thermal expansion and contraction of the pipes as they heat and cool. If the moving pipes rub against the floor or wall framing, they will pop each time the heat cycles. The only solution is to locate the pinch spot and relieve it. This may involve cutting exploratory holes in the walls or floor. Since this can be a costly solution, most homeowners decide to live with the noise, and consider it part of the character of the house.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Q—We have hot-water heat. Can we still install a whole-house humidifier?

Parrish — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:23:24 +0000

A—Yes you can. While it is easier to add humidifiers to forced-air heating systems, because the fan and ductwork is already in place to distribute the humidified air, there are humidifiers on the market that have their own blowers and can be permanently installed. One model by Aprilaire uses hot water from the domestic water heater which drips over a metal filter media.

It requires a drain for the un-evaporated water stream, but continuously cleans itself. Other models have their own heating elements to inject steam into the air stream. Since water vapor equalizes itself throughout the house, a centrally located unit can effectively humidify the entire house. Be sure to adjust the humidity levels to prevent condensation on windows or walls—the lower the outside temperature, the lower the relative humidity. Stabilizing the relative humidity in the 30-50% range will improve comfort and health, and preserve wood furniture.

We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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No Job too Big or too Small…Handyman Services

Parrish — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 08:30:05 +0000

In celebration of over 40 years in the Boulder Valley, we are offering a service that our clients have always enjoyed: Handyman Services (for your Honey-do list!) and small jobs for those things like decks, outbuildings, porches, patios, repair work, window replacement — that you might not think we offer. We do, and we bring to it the same care and full system approach that we bring to our big jobs.

This includes our same trustworthy staff (see Our Team) and protocols. We are insured, licensed and we stand behind our work. We will provide a ‘house call’, quickly assess the work to be done, and complete the work on the spot, if possible. Below is a list of some of the things we’ve done for our clients that would fall under our Handyman/Small jobs category.

Small Jobs:

Installing new doors & windows ▪ Window flashing ▪ Interior trim ▪ Drywall repairs ▪ Bathroom repairs ▪ Changing faucets ▪ Caulking tubs/showers ▪ Lighting fixtures ▪ Wall mounting new televisions ▪ Wire management for cable ▪ Exterior repairs and maintenance ▪ Repair decks, steps, railings & gates ▪ Sealing stone counters ▪ Refinish butcher-block tops ▪ Install smoke and CO2 detectors ▪ Install pet doors

Aging-in-Place/Handicapped/Mobility Needs:

We are CAPS certified by the National Association of Home Builders (Certified Aging in Place Specialists)These changes enable people to live independently in their own homes: ▪ Widen doors and hallways (for walker and wheel chair access) ▪ Contrasting trim for better visibility ▪ Better lighting ▪ Ramps ▪ Banisters & grab bars ▪ Improved doorbells ▪ Lever handles ▪ Bath tubs with access doors ▪ Built in benches in showers ▪ Heated floors in bathrooms ▪ Heated walkways and drives for automatic ice melt

Energy Efficient Upgrades & Greening Up:

Better insulation ▪ Upgraded doors and windows ▪ Low VOC paints ▪ On-demand water heaters ▪ High-efficiency furnaces ▪ air exchangers ▪ Swamp coolers ▪ Daylighting (tubular skylights & solar tubes) ▪ Gas fireplace inserts ▪ Fresh-air heat exchangers ▪ Radiant heated floors ▪ Wood pellet/high efficiency Woodstoves Scheduled annual or seasonal care: ▪ Security monitoring ▪ Monthly inspections ▪ Gutter cleaning ▪ Water turned off outdoors ▪ Storm doors and windows installed/removed seasonally ▪ Filter replacement ▪ Battery & light bulb replacement ▪ Roof inspection ▪ Annual exterior and roof inspection ▪ Preventive maintenance ▪ Concierge services. Contact us if you have any questions or would like further information about our Handyman/Small Jobs services.

We always welcome your comments, questions and suggestions. Please feel free to post in the “Comments Box” below.