Since the cable is non-electric, it can be embedded in the mortar of a glass block wall, or inside aquariums, swimming pools, or display cabinets, or under stair treads—and there is only one bulb to replace. One manufacturer specializing in fiber optic lighting is Lightly Expressed Ltd. They are represented in Denver by M/H Lighting Associates, Inc.,  303-573-0222.

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The moisture in the brick, however, is a problem. It can destroy the wall by freezing and spalling, and must be eliminated to prevent damage, and further staining. In your case, the moisture is likely due to missing or ineffective waterproofing of the inside of the planter walls. When the soil in your planter is wetted, either by rain, snow, or irrigation, the bricks and mortar absorb moisture and carry salts to the surface.

Here are three possible solutions:

1) Remove all the plants and soil and carefully waterproof the inside of the planter, providing “weep-holes” (openings in the mortar joint) in the bottom courses of brick. The clean and dry brick can then be coated with a waterproofing compound by brush or sprayer, or covered with a membrane such as EPDM or “Ice and Water Shield”. Fill most of the planter with gravel to insure good drainage. Use of a permeable filter (made just for this purpose) against the inside of the brick will also improve drainage

2) Remove enough soil to install separate water-tight containers to contain your plants and the damp soil. I’ve seen them made of copper or galvanized metal. They could also be constructed of wood and lined with a waterproof membrane.

3) Abandon the plants, and cover the planters with a stone cap to shed the water.

Need help? Give us a call and we can help you with all your landscaping needs. That’s what we’re here for! 303-444-0033.

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We welcome your comments below. For immediate questions, or to submit a question to Larry for a future FAQ blog, e-mail info@ParrishBuilt.com

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Many old-timers swear by a good scrubbing with a diluted solution of Tide laundry detergent applied liberally with a scrub brush and “elbow grease”. According to the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association (WRCLA), a better result can be obtained by the use of a solution of sodium percarbonate, the active ingredient in some of the color-safe laundry bleaches. This is effective against mildew stains and the graying caused by exposure to the sun. Follow this up with a diluted solution of oxalic acid to remove the tannin and iron stains. Oxalic acid in crystal form is available in local hardware stores. In concentrated form it is caustic, so be sure to follow all label instructions carefully, and avoid contact with any body parts you like.

Although stains on redwood are cosmetic, and don’t indicate structural problems, they are indicative of elements that will damage wood—moisture, mildew, and ultraviolet light. Redwood and cedar dealers recommend use of a sealer to mitigate the damage. There are many effective sealers on the market, making it difficult to find the right choice. Look for one that offers water resistance combined with a mildewcide and UV protection. Expect to reapply every two or three years. For more information online, you can find details at the WRCLA website.

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Simply dial 811, or visit the Utility Notification Center of Colorado, at least three business days before you dig. Exceptions may be made for shorter notification time in case of true emergency. You will need the following information: Phone number and address, alternate phone, type of work to be done, whether explosives will be involved, nearest intersecting street, location on the property of the excavation, date of proposed excavation, and legal description of the property if available.

Mark your proposed excavation on the ground with white paint. The utilities will mark their lines on the ground according to the following color code: Red=electric power, Yellow=gas, Orange=communications cables, Blue=water lines, Green=sewer lines, Purple=irrigation lines (you will be responsible for your own irrigation lines). The location marks are accurate within 18” on either side of the line. Any excavation closer than this should be done carefully by hand. The location is valid for thirty days or as long as visible, whichever is less.

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Original summer kitchens were cooking areas outside the home to double cooking space during harvest and to limit heat gain in the non-air conditioned house.  The modern “summer kitchen” addresses these concerns as well as some more noble and pleasant pursuits.

Becoming increasingly popular, the modern summer kitchen can include a gas grill, wet bar and refrigeration unit among other things.  Smartly designed for entertaining and relaxing, there are benefits for the home and the environment.

Here are some other benefits:

• Provides more space for larger numbers of people to eat, perfect for large summer gatherings.
• Provides a cooler place to eat meals.
• Keeps bugs out of the house that would otherwise be attracted by the aromas of the food.
• By keeping heat creation outside, reduces energy use. By placing food preparation outdoors, limits trips in and out of the house for an al fresco experience.

Construction Elements:

• Traditional summer kitchens were often in a separate building; today’s ‘summer kitchen’ is usually more exposed to elements—it may not be in a separate structure, but adjacent to the house.
• May be under a porch or roof, but is usually open on the sides (no walls)
• Can be constructed on an existing patio or deck.
• Can be equipped with heaters to extend seasonal usage.
• Ambiance can be enhanced with a fire pit—wood-burning, natural gas, or propane fueled—to allow lingering conversations in fresh air.
• Can be designed with retractable awnings to control sunlight.
• Can be outfitted with removable screening to exclude bugs.
• Can be located for optimal solar exposure and shade.

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The single biggest water user in the home is irrigating lawns and vegetation.  Colorado often has little rain and doesn’t allow gray water, so valuable premium treated water is used to water plants.  Consider xeriscaping and strategic plant placement.  The second biggest water use is in toilets.  Low flow toilets have gotten a bad rap because the earliest versions sometimes required more than one flush, technology has improved now and special features such as dual-flush and pressure assist toilets can make the smaller water use flushes more efficient and very worth the investment.

Here are some features that can be added to create a water-efficient home:

• place bathrooms and kitchen near water heater to shorten the time it takes to get hot water to your faucets, or use tank-less water heaters in     remote areas of the house
• monitor your water use with your PC.  The PC can also be used to detect leaks and control irrigation
• hot water recirculation pump
• Energy Star dishwashers can use 30% less water
• Energy Star washing machines use 33% less water
• EPA WaterSense toilets use 20% less water
• replace faucets and shower heads to use 20% less water
• bring your garden indoors by incorporating greenhouses and garden windows into the design instead of using more water in this arid landscape
• composting toilet for outbuildings
• large awnings that direct water onto vegetation and reduce the need for air conditioning
• downspouts directed away from the home and toward vegetation
• Xeriscape yard
• moisture-sensing irrigation timer (so sprinklers don’t go on when it’s raining!)

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While there is some risk of causing cracks in the slab, the chance to avoid an expensive replacement makes the relatively small cost a good gamble. Look under Mud Jacking Contractors in the Yellow Pages or do a search on Google. A typical small job should run about $300-$500.

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• Don’t be moved by age. According to the American Association of Retired Persons (AARP), older homeowners overwhelmingly prefer to age-in-place, meaning to live at home safely, independently and comfortably.

• With Universal Design principals, this has become increasingly easy. You can make your house your home-for-life. The changes needed, often simple and small, are cheaper than moving into assisted living facilities.

• As one of my clients says: “Ain’t movin’ ‘til they take me out in a pine box”.  As a Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS), here is my advice on what you need to consider if you feel the same way:

Installing grab bars in bathroom showers can ensure safety and prevent falls.

• Safety:

1. Lighting, more of it and higher quality; color corrected bulbs help.
2. Contrast in surface textures and colors to enable you to distinguish between them.
3. Compact fluorescent bulbs, cooler to the touch and energy efficient
4. Scald prevention plumbing fixtures.
5. Non-slip surface treatments in baths and bath rooms
6. Electronic ignition to replace pilot lights, so you are not kneeling with a match and your reading glasses!

• Ease of Use:

1. Look ahead. Update now to prevent having to deal with it when you are less able: new major appliances; re-roof; re-side to prevent regular paint jobs. Low maintenance is your goal.
2. Shop with a critical eye. When you replace an appliance, look for convenience in cleaning and servicing.
3. Heights: cabinets can be designed now to be removed later to create an under the counter knee space to accommodate wheel chairs. Raise some appliances, such as dishwashers, to load and unload without stooping.
4. Put the master bed and bath on the first floor.
5. A high maintenance yard is like a high-maintenance person. ‘Nuff said (See ”Upgrading and Modernizing” below).

• Independence:

1. Widen doorways and traffic areas to accommodate walkers and wheelchairs.
2. Remove levels and steps.
3. A lever handle puts less demand on your grip than a knob.
4. Convert space for anticipated live-in help.
5. Build a network of support: gather around you now (through trusted referrals) the help you need for gardening, heavy house cleaning, shoveling snow, cleaning out gutters, find a good handy man service.
6. Keyless entries mitigate forgetfulness and afford the ability to change locks easily. They also allow someone to drop in easily and check on you.

• Upgrading and Modernizing

• While you are at it…Green Up! Many of these changes also provide an opportunity to increase insulation, improve window quality, and use higher efficiency appliances. Sensitivity to cold increases as we age. (We are all familiar with Grandma’s house being very warm.) Furthermore, utility prices will only continue to rise. Commonly, adding insulation and other energy saving ideas costs only an additional 5%. However, the ROI (return on investment) is usually better than 8% immediately, and in the current energy market, even above that.

• Use any remodeling opportunity as a Greening Up opportunity as well. You won’t regret it. It will only help in selling your home eventually, too. Xeriscaping is a major boon in at least three ways: your aching back, high water bills and our alpine desert environment. Boulder abounds with xeriscaping experts and many beautiful examples of how gorgeous such landscaping can be.

• Remember, with a little planning, you can live at home and live well…for many years to come.

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• We always welcome your comments, questions and suggestions. Please feel free to post in the “Comments Box” below.

Xeriscaped, sloped yards require little maintenance and allow ease of access.

• The sounds of Spring — birds, lawnmowers, sump pumps. Flooded basements: a rite of Spring. With a little planning, however, you can minimize the likelihood of hauling soggy carpet out to dry.

• Most flooded basements/crawlspaces are caused by surface water ponding near the foundation, soaking into the fill dirt, leaking in through the joint between floor slab and foundation wall. Backfill can settle over time to trap water. Window wells fill up, leak in around windows—or soak the ground and seep in at floor level.

• If surface water is your source, the solution is to keep it well away from your foundation through proper grading of soil. If it is expansive soil, moisture can cause it to swell, possibly causing serious damage.

• The ground near foundations should slope away from the house at least six inches in the first ten feet. Sometimes houses were built too low to the ground for proper drainage, difficult and expensive to correct. If your lot doesn’t allow for proper drainage, get the water to pond far from your house. (Do not grade your yard to drain into your neighbor’s basement!)

• Most houses should also have a perimeter drain system installed, draining safely to a sump pit with a pump or, drain by gravity to a low discharge point. Some houses have drains and pits, but no pump. It is a good idea to install redundant pumps, one set a few inches higher than the other. The extra pump can serve as a backup, or can double the pumping capacity in severe flooding.

• An ounce of prevention…

1. Verify the pump is operating: pour water in pit – does pump function and discharge to the outside, well away from the house? It is illegal to discharge ground water into the sewer system. Remember—if you wait until your basement is flooding, it is too late. Hundreds of other people will have already bought, rented, and borrowed every pump in the county!
2. Landscaping near the foundation should not require irrigation. Irrigation will saturate the soils, so they can absorb no more. Foundation perimeters are a good place for xeriscape.
3. Turf, sidewalks, or edging should not dam surface water near the foundation.
4. Clean your gutters. Clogged downspouts make gutters overflow, dumping water against foundations. Downspouts should discharge well away from the foundation, perhaps requiring extensions or underground drainage pipes.
5. Buy the inexpensive devices that sound an alarm when wet. Similar to smoke detectors (battery operated) place them in areas prone to flooding. Early warning can save you trouble. If out of town during “rainy season,” arrange for a check on your basement. Early detection can be critical.
6. Homeowner’s insurance does not cover all flooding. If a hailstone breaks your window, allowing water in, you’re probably covered. If you forgot to clean your gutters, and water seeps in around your basement window, you’re not.

• If your best efforts fail, a few things you can do to minimize damage:

1. Furniture legs up on blocks, or on aluminum foil/ plastic patches, prevents them from absorbing water or rusting.
2. Remove wet carpet as soon as possible.
3. Rent special fans designed to blow air under carpet loosened around the edges.
4. If dry weather, open windows/doors, use fans to get air moving.
5. Rent dehumidifiers to dry things out quickly.
6. Water vacuums are helpful for floors.

• I hope this article didn’t dampen your spirits. Happy Spring!

• We always welcome your comments, questions and suggestions. Please feel free to post in the “Comments Box” below.