FAQ
Parrish Construction’s President, Larry Parrish, (CR, CGR, CAPS, GACP) has been in the business of building and remodeling homes for more than a few decades, and takes joy in providing answers to any number of construction-related questions. Larry has written numerous columns for the “Home” section of The Daily Camera on practical and useful topics such as home care, remodeling, building and consumer education.
Browse through a few of the FAQ below to discover answers to some of the most Frequently Asked Questions from homeowners interested in having work done on their home. Also, be sure to check out the News and Blog pages for additional advice and published in-depth feature articles.
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FAQ Guide A-Z
Architectural Design
Architectural Design Copyrights
Q—I asked an architect to adapt the design of another house in our neighborhood for our project and he declined, citing copyright infringement issues. Is the architect’s response reasonable, or does he just want to charge more for a total design? How do you find out if a certain design is copyrighted?
A—The architect’s concerns are justified. In 1991, U.S. copyright law was changed to cover not only the architectural drawings from which buildings are constructed, but also the building itself, and design elements of the building. If he “borrows” design ideas from the other house, you and the architect may find yourself facing a restraining order and a lawsuit for copyright infringement.
An original design is automatically copyrighted by virtue of being created on paper (or computer), and does not require a copyright notice, though they are usually used. In practice, architects typically maintain ownership of the design copyright for their lifetime, and license the homeowner or builder to use the design for their one project only. A builder is prevented from duplicating a house design, such as for a subdivision, unless he has purchased the right to do so from the architect. Most architects’ contracts allow them to withhold use of the design unless the architect has been paid in full for its use.
Allow the architect to create an original design for you, and the result will be tailor made to fit your needs, with a unique style you can be proud of.
Architectural Design Guidelines
Q—We’re about to begin architectural design for a new living room addition on our home. Are there any pitfalls we should watch out for?
A—I recommend that you create a detailed plan of furnishings and equipment in all the rooms. Otherwise you may be surprised later to find that your furniture doesn’t fit, or that the room doesn’t function the way you want it to. Your architect can create this plan, or you can cut out scale furniture pieces and move them around the floor plan. Begin by giving your architect a detailed list of all the furniture you plan to use in the new or remodeled rooms. Give actual measurements of any items you already own, and estimated measurements of items you anticipate acquiring in the future. If necessary, lay out the room in full scale using cardboard sheets on the floor to represent the room size and furniture placement. The time and energy spent can pay dividends in improved room function.
By planning the placement of all the furniture, you can ensure that there is adequate room for traffic lanes, and that plugs will be in the right place for lamps and appliances. In the placement of televisions, plan for good sight lines, and consider glare from windows. Also consider the location of artwork and locate lighting to showcase it properly.
Plan a walkthrough with the contractor just before the electrical wiring, plumbing, and heating are installed to insure proper placement of outlets, heat registers, lighting, etc..
Basements
Q—We have a large crawl-space under part of our house, and a basement under the rest. Is it possible to dig out the crawl space to enlarge the basement?
A—While it’s always easier to build the basement first and then the house, it is probably possible to build in the reverse order, depending upon soil conditions, existing foundation details, access for digging equipment, and how much money you have. In addition to the obvious difficulty of digging under the house, great care must be exercised to avoid undermining the existing foundation, and causing your house to fall into the new basement. Start with a feasibility study by a structural engineer and/or a soils engineer.
A common technique involves the installation of “sister walls” to retain the soil which supports the foundation and house. This retaining wall will be a foot or more inside the existing foundation, and extend from the new floor level to at least the height of the footing. Sand or compacted earth will be placed between this new wall and the earth bank to prevent the bank from sloughing off into the basement. We’ve seen one design where the sister wall was made of pressure-treated lumber. More typically, it would be concrete or CMU (cinder block).
The existing basement and the new one can be connected by sawing a new door opening in the basement wall. An additional opening will probably be cut in the foundation of the crawl-space to allow entry of a small excavating machine such as a Bobcat. Ask the contractor to install adequate ventilation for any machinery operating in the crawlspace to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the house. And, just in case, be sure to take “before” pictures of the house to remind you of what it looked like when it was still above ground.
Building Permits
Q–Will I need a building permit for this project?
A– Virtually every construction project other than minor cosmetic work (such as replacing cabinets) requires a building permit in both the city of Boulder and Boulder County. This includes many projects normally considered landscaping, such as decks and fences. Permits are needed even if you are doing the work yourself.
The permit requirement is there to protect the public safety and the
homeowner from unsafe or substandard construction. For example, building
codes insure that outlets are grounded, bedroom windows are large enough
for fire escape, handrails are safe, and smoke detectors are installed.
While there is a small fee for inspection services, the delay in getting
started is often the biggest problem. Boulder County is currently quoting
two to six weeks to issue a permit for remodeling, and the city of Boulder
is quoting up to four weeks. Please understand if your contractor can’t
start work before the permit is issued.
If you are tempted to ignore the regulation, don’t! And please don’t ask
your contractor to do the work without a permit–his license and
livelihood are on the line. If your contractor agrees to such an
arrangement, he is not professional, and that should make you nervous.
If you’re thinking of doing work yourself without a permit, consider the
owner’s disclosure statement that Realtors require sellers to sign upon
listing a property. When you sell, you will be asked to sign a legal
document disclosing (among other things) if you have knowledge of any work
on your home that was done without a permit. If you disclose such work,
rest assured the prospective buyer will require you to have the work
inspected, and correct any non-conforming work at your expense. You might
as well follow the rules up-front, and enjoy knowing your project is done
safely and legally.
Q—Do we need a permit to remodel our kitchen? How long does it take to get a permit?
A—The answer depends on which jurisdiction your home is located in. In general, all jurisdictions require permits for any jobs involving structural, electrical, plumbing, heating, or framing changes, among others. See a descriptive list below. If you are simply changing the cabinets, appliances, or finishes, you probably don’t need a permit. On the other hand, if you are moving walls, electrical outlets, or gas lines, you definitely need a permit. The safest thing to do is contact your local building department, describe the work, and ask about their permit policy.
Don’t be afraid of getting a permit. It will protect you and your investment by insuring that all work is done according to national quality standards and safety codes. Also, upon selling the home, you will be required to disclose your knowledge of any violations of building or zoning regulations.
The time required to secure a permit varies widely, from a week to eight weeks or more. The city of Boulder is making a concerted effort to improve customer service, promising to strive for faster turn-around for simple projects, eventually offering over-the-counter permits for simple remodels. On average, during the current construction boom, figure about three weeks for an average remodel anywhere in Boulder County.
The following are general examples of the types of residential projects that require building permits in Boulder County jurisdictions:
1 Building a new home
2 Remodeling a home:
- If adding or moving electrical, plumbing, structural members, gas lines, or heating.
- Bathroom remodels other than simple replacement of finishes.
- Finishing a basement or a room in the basement.
- Moving walls or adding rooms.
3 Installing a hot water heater or furnace.
4 Building or modifying a fence.
5 Resurfacing a driveway
6 Re-roofing a house.
7 Building a deck (jurisdiction specific).
Construction Jargon A-Z
Q—Help! I can’t seem to understand all the construction jargon my last contractor used. Can you share some of the most common terms?
A—Jar-gon (noun) Obscure and often pretentious language marked by circumlocutions and long words (from WWWebster’s Dictionary on the internet).
Construction, like many professions, has its share of jargon—obscure terms that are meaningless to the average person. Unlike the medical profession, however, we don’t intentionally use an arcane language in order to confuse the patient. We use jargon to feel smug and important.
I am frequently questioned about the meaning of construction terminology. At the risk of raising the hackles of my fellow contractors, and in the spirit of openness, I will attempt to throw open the doors of construction chauvinism, and shed light on many of the terms of the trade.
Some of the following definitions come from an actual dictionary, the Means Illustrated Construction Dictionary. Running 566 pages in length, and including more than 12,000 construction terms, it clearly demonstrates how important contractors are. Other definitions are from my vast personal knowledge, and a few are from jokes that have been circulated for so long as to be almost illegible. It will be up to you to determine which ones you trust. They are arranged alphabetically for your convenience:
- Astragal—a molding attached to one of a pair of doors or windows to cover up the joint between two stiles.
- Bid opening—a poker game in which the player with the losing hand wins.
- Change order—a written order to a contractor with necessary signatures to make it a legal document, and authorizing a change from the original plans, specifications, or other contract documents, as well as a change in the cost and schedule.
- Dentil—Square tooth-like blocks used as ornaments under a cornice.
- Estimate—the cost of construction in heaven.
- Fascia—a board used on the outside vertical face of a cornice, or connecting the top of the siding with the bottom of the soffit, or nailed across the ends of the rafters at the eaves.
- General contractor—The primary contractor who oversees and is responsible for all the work performed on the site, and to whom any subcontractors on the same job are responsible. The buck does not stop with the general contractor. It passes through him on the way to everyone else.
- Header—a framing member extending horizontally between two joists to support tailpieces.
- I-beam—A structural member of rolled steel whose cross section resembles the capital letter I.
- Jack rafter—A rafter, shorter in length than the normal rafters in the same building, and used to support the roof in a hip or between a valley and a ridge.
- Knee wall—A wall that shortens the span of the roof rafters by acting as a knee brace, in that it supports the rafters at some intermediate point along their length.
- Low bidder—the contractor who got the job, but is wondering what he left out.
- Molding—An ornamental strip of material used at joints, cornices, bases, door and window trim, and the like.
- Newell—The post supporting a handrail at the top and bottom of a flight of stairs. Also, the center post of a spiral staircase.
- Overhead—Indirect costs incurred in achieving project completion, but not applicable to any specific task. Includes insurance, payroll taxes, telephone, vehicle maintenance, and the like.
- Profit—Not listed among the more than 12,000 terms in the Means Illustrated Construction Dictionary. Apparently unknown in the construction industry.
- Quarter-sawn lumber—Lumber sawn so that the annual growth rings form angles of 45 to 90 degrees with the surface of the piece.
- Rebar—Short for reinforcing bar. A steel bar, usually with manufactured deformations, used in concrete and masonry construction to provide additional strength.
- Schedule of estimated costs—a collection of wild guesses carried out to two decimal places.
- Tenon—A projecting, tongue-like part of a wood member designed to be inserted into a slot or mortise of another member to form a mortise and tenon joint.
- U-value—A measure of heat flow, also know as thermal transmittance, used as a quality measure of products such as windows. The lower the number the better the insulation property.
- Variance—A written authorization from a responsible agency permitting construction in a manner which is not allowed by a code or ordinance. Archaic term, since the last variance was issued in 1783.
- Water hammer—A loud thumping noise in a water service line due to the surge of suddenly checked water.
- X-brace—A paired set of reinforcing sway braces.
- Yahoo—a contractor from out of town.
- Zoning department—a bureaucratic organization constituted to keep you from using your property
There you have it—construction from A to Z. Try sprinkling a few of these choice terms in your discourse, and you too can talk like a contractor and impress your friends. But be prepared—they may just think you’re “half a bubble out of plumb”.
Costs of Construction
Q—The fee our building contractor charges for his work includes a percentage to cover overhead and profit. What is overhead, and is this legitimate?
A—Overhead is the operational expense of running a business that is not directly attributable to your specific project. This would include utilities, rent, insurance, taxes, bookkeeper, truck payments, and the like. All these expenses must be paid just to stay in business. According to industry expert Steve Maltzman of Builder Accounting Services in Redlands, California, who authored a national study for the National Association of Home Builders, the average overhead for construction companies is 21% of revenue.
After the labor, material and overhead expenses are paid, the rest is profit. Profit is the money available to invest back into the business, share with employees, and be taxed on. If your contractor doesn’t make any, he won’t be in business to finish your job, take care of warranty issues, or build your next project.
It sounds like your contractor works on a Time and Material basis, where he is reimbursed for his direct expenses such as labor, subcontracts and materials for your job, then a fee to allow for overhead and profit. This is a growing trend in construction, because clients know exactly what their money is going for, and get what they pay for.
Q—How much does it cost per square foot to build an addition on a house?
A—That depends on which square foot you’re talking about. The square foot where the new commercial-grade refrigerator sits will cost about $600, and a square foot of the new driveway will cost about $3. Averaging these two together yields $301.50 per square foot. Sorry to sound flippant, but I couldn’t resist it
The point is, numbers can be deceiving, and none more so than a “rule of thumb” number such as the average remodeling cost per square foot. Remodel jobs are like children—there aren’t any average ones. Cost really depends on many variables. Among these are size, level of finish, number of stories, ease of access, type of room, and complexity of tie-in with the existing house.
In general, the larger the project, the less it costs per square foot, because there is an economy of scale—the first foot costs the most. Likewise, it us usually cheaper to build on two levels instead of one, assuming the square footage is the same, because the roof, excavation, and foundation are only about half as large. And, of course, unfinished garages cost less to build than kitchens and master bathrooms. But, the garage is not free. And this is an important point, because some architects overlook that fact when they calculate costs on a per-foot basis, counting only “finished livable” footage in their cost calculations.
What you really want to know is what your project will cost. Most contractors can give reasonable ballpark estimates once they understand enough about the project. To get a better handle on the costs, you will need at least schematic-level designs, and outline specifications. Design/build contractors and architects typically charge approximately two to three percent of the total budget to get to this point (about one third the total cost for complete design services). For this fee, you should get a feasibility study with several design ideas, and fairly accurate cost estimates—information you can really use.
Q—My contractor included “allowances” in our contract for appliances,
floor coverings, etc.. Can you explain how an allowance works?
A—Your builder followed the common practice of using an “allowance” as a
budget placeholder for certain finish materials not specified in the
contract documents. In other words, you are “allowed” to spend a certain
amount without adjusting your cost of the house. If the allowances are
in-line with your taste and budget, there will be small ramifications to
the budget. If the allowances are much less than you spend for those
items, you will be required to pay the difference, plus the contractor’s
markup. Likewise, if you spend less, you should receive a credit.
In a competitive bidding situation, contractors will sometimes use low
allowances in order to lower their bid, expecting to make up the
difference when the customer makes his or her selections. Most
contractors use reasonable allowances, in-line with the overall quality of
the house. Before you go shopping, you’ll want to be clear about what the
exact allowances are, and what your costs will be if you spend a different
amount.
Q—Our remodeling contractor has included the cost of a portable toilet at $80 per month in his bid. Is this standard practice? It seems unreasonable.
A—Contractors are required to make toilet facilities available to workers. $80 per month is about the going rate, but if you have a toilet you can make available, you will save considerable money. Please don’t ask the workers to use the gas station down the street. It’s not fair to the workers or the station owner. Show the workers a little respect, and they will return the favor.
Electrical Concerns
Q—I’ve just discovered that our house has aluminum wiring, and that it might be a fire hazard. Do I need to have my whole house re-wired?
A—It isn’t necessary to re-wire the whole house, but you should have all the connections “pig-tailed” to copper wire with the proper connectors by a licensed electrician. While aluminum is actually an excellent conductor, and was used extensively during the late ‘60’s and early ‘70s, corrosion can occur at connections to devices such as switches, outlets, light fixtures, and other wires. This corrosion causes increased electrical resistance, leading to dangerous heating at the connection, and possible fires.
The cost of professional repair of all electrical connections in a typical home, including the service panel, is approximately $1,000 to $2,000.
The Consumer Product Safety Commission has a publication on the topic, available free of charge by writing or sending a post card to:
CPSC Publication Request
Washington, DC 20207
Include your name, address, and phone number. Request the publication by number and name: #516, “Repairing Aluminum Wiring”.
Q–We are thinking about getting an emergency generator. Could we wire one directly into our breaker panel?
A—This is a job for a professional electrician. It would involve installation of a special switch that would disconnect main power while simultaneously connecting your generator to one or two appropriate circuits—typically supplying only emergency needs such as your furnace, refrigerator and minimal lighting, depending on the capacity of your generator. For what it’s worth, I’m taking my chances on “The Grid”.
Fall (Autumn) Considerations
Q—Is it too late in the season to begin a large addition project?
A—Our weather is usually mild enough to allow construction throughout the fall and winter without serious problems. In past years, my company has begun many large projects in October and November without significant problems. Ideally, if you can get the shell of the structure up and “dried-in” before mid-December, the remaining exterior work can dodge the storms, and the interior work can proceed unimpeded. If the roof must be removed, it is often easier to protect the house from snow than from spring rains, since snow can be removed before melting.
Timing, however, is crucial. If a surprise storm brings a foot of wet snow or a week of sub-zero temperatures just after the basement or crawl space is excavated, you may incur costly delays or remedies in order to form and pour the foundation. On the other hand, the same storm an hour after the foundation is poured may be nothing more than a minor inconvenience.
Any increase in cost associated with weather protection or lost efficiency could easily be offset by the advantage of finishing the project on schedule, instead of delaying for a spring start.
Q– Is there anything I should be doing in the fall to maintain the exterior of my home to prepare?
A–Public Service Bulletin—if you haven’t already done so, remember to clean your gutters and downspouts now that the leaves have fallen. This can prevent damage to siding and foundations caused by overflowing gutters dumping water next to the house. And please—be careful in the process!
Getting Started
Q—Can you please explain the roles of the architect, general contractor, and subcontractor in the construction process? What does it mean when a construction company says they offer Design/Build services?
A–It might be helpful to strike an analogy between construction and orchestral music. I realize this may sound like a stretch, but if you’ll indulge me for a moment, I think I can demonstrate many similarities.
Consider the homeowner. He or she is the patron of the arts who has commissioned a great work to be written and played. As the patron, he pays the bills, but also calls the tune. He must be clear about what kind of music he likes, and have examples of music that illustrate his taste. He must also clearly divulge his budget.
The construction project is like music—music that takes weeks or months to play. The best melody not only sounds good to the patron, but to everyone who isn’t tone deaf.
The architect or designer is the composer, responsible for creating a masterpiece that meets the needs and constraints of the patron. The composer should not write a symphony when the client wants a jingle. If he does his job thoroughly, the details and nuances of the music are set out on paper that any competent musician can read and execute, and the composer’s work is done. In other words, the blueprints are like sheet music, amply annotated.
The general contractor is a conductor (whose orchestra will play the concert outdoors, subject to the weather). He studies the music, hires competent musicians, and assures that each note is played by the right musician at the proper time. Occasionally consulting with the composer, if available, the conductor interprets the music. He must command the attention and respect of each musician, and likewise must discipline or replace musicians that don’t play their notes on time, or in tune with the others. The conductor also makes sure that all musicians are paid on time so they show up on opening night.
While some conductors specialize in a particular type of music, the best can conduct a variety. Do not judge a conductor on the basis of one concert. After all, he didn’t choose the music.
A Design/Build contractor is like a composer/conductor that conducts his own music. Some patrons prefer to hire a composer/conductor to save money and time, and to be confident that the notes played will match the sheet music. Read more about our Design/Build Services.
The contractor’s employees and subcontractors are the musicians. They must be accomplished at reading music and skillful with their instrument. They must also keep their eye on the conductor, and be committed to playing their part in harmony with the other musicians. While every orchestra wants virtuoso musicians, all the musicians must play well together.
A new employee or subcontractor is like a guest artist. The classically trained ones are best, but must still tune up and practice with the whole orchestra in order to perfect the timing and pitch. Most conductors prefer to work with their regular musicians.
Like all artists, musicians can be temperamental. Keeping them together is sometimes like herding cats. This explains why so many conductors have white hair.
The moment of truth is opening night. When the lights come up and the concert begins, there is magic in the air. Each artist plays his part with skill, the notes ring clear and true, and the music is inspiring. When the last note has sounded, and the audience springs to its feet in enthusiastic ovation, everyone revels in the joy of artistic creation. And the Conductor takes a bow.
Humidifiers
Q—We have hot-water heat. Can we still install a whole-house humidifier?
A—Yes you can. While it is easier to add humidifiers to forced-air heating systems, because the fan and ductwork is already in place to distribute the humidified air, there are humidifiers on the market that have their own blowers and can be permanently installed. One model by Aprilaire uses hot water from the domestic water heater which drips over a metal filter media. It requires a drain for the un-evaporated water stream, but continuously cleans itself. Other models have their own heating elements to inject steam into the air stream. Since water vapor equalizes itself throughout the house, a centrally located unit can effectively humidify the entire house. Be sure to adjust the humidity levels to prevent condensation on windows or walls—the lower the outside temperature, the lower the relative humidity. Stabilizing the relative humidity in the 30-50% range will improve comfort and health, and preserve wood furniture.
Kitchens
Q—What can I do to improve my kitchen on a tight budget?
A—Here are several ideas for sprucing up a kitchen without busting the bank:
- Paint or re-finish the existing cabinets, and replace the hardware. For a slightly higher budget, replace the doors and drawer-fronts with new ones, and re-face the cabinet bodies.
- Add new pullout trays to improve storage efficiency.
- Refrigerators and dishwashers can be painted at an automotive body shop. Many dishwashers have extra panels or reversible color panels hidden behind the front one to allow you to change the color at no cost.
- Add a new light fixture or two to make the room more pleasant and efficient.
- Change the sink and faucet. Stainless steel is durable, classic, and available at reasonable cost.
- Replacing the countertops is fairly easy and inexpensive, especially if you use plastic laminate. In some cases, with the proper technique, it can be applied over the existing tops.
- Do the work in stages. If you can’t manage the whole job at once, replace one or two things for instant gratification. Budget to do something each year and you’ll soon have an all-new kitchen.
Q—We’re planning to remodel our kitchen, and would like to incorporate a new island. What are some of the issues we should consider?
A—You’re in good company. According to the National Association of Home Builders, 80% of today’s homeowners consider a kitchen island to be desirable or essential. Islands can add utility, convenience, and resale value.
Traditionally rectangular, and located near the center of a kitchen, an island can provide valuable counter space available from all directions, and organize the workflow. In larger or open kitchens, angular islands such as L, Y, U or V shaped, can act as a delineating wall, while leaving the kitchen open to adjacent spaces. In some cases, attaching to nearby counters to form a peninsula is the most effective solution to traffic and work flow.
An island may offer a convenient location for a cook top, cutting board, an extra sink, seating for cooks and visitors, storage for utensils, or a home for a dishwasher or under-counter refrigerated drawers. According to the National Kitchen and Bath Association, more than one third of homes remodeled or built in the past two years feature kitchens with a second sink.
There are no set guidelines for the size of an island, but there are rules for the space around one. Work aisles facing a range, refrigerator, or other appliance should be 42 inches for a single chef, or 48” for two chefs. Remember to provide adequate room around opened range, refrigerator, or dishwasher doors. I recommend creating a mock-up island from cardboard and supported at the proposed height. Easily adjusted in size and location, a prototype can be invaluable in determining the perfect size, shape, and location. If the cooks are tall, an island may be more convenient with a slightly higher countertop—perhaps at 38” instead of the standard 36”. Likewise, a shorter cook may appreciate a slightly lowered work surface.
Don’t be concerned about matching the style of the existing cabinets or countertops. As an independent element, an island is the perfect opportunity to introduce new materials such as a granite counter top or another wood color or species. For an added design feature, consider adding a skylight or coffered ceiling above, or perhaps a pot-rack. If your island will incorporate a sink, a batch-type waste disposer with built-in activator will address the awkward problem of where to locate the power switch.
Q—I saw a hot water dispenser at a friend’s house recently, and would like one in my kitchen. How do they work? Are they difficult to install?
A—These dispensers are miniature water heaters with their own electric heating element and storage reservoirs of 1/3 or ½ gallon, capable of delivering approximately 60 cups of near-boiling water per hour. They are usually installed in the cabinet under the sink, hooked up to the water supply, and have their own faucet. While the plumbing is simple, electric power will be necessary, and can perhaps be obtained from the power supply of an adjacent dishwasher.
The spout delivers water as a slower rate than a regular faucet, and the water is hotter than normal—approximately 190 degrees F instead of the typical 120 degrees from a kitchen faucet. Some models have an adjustable thermostat. The tanks are not pressurized, but the special faucet replaces water in the tank as it is withdrawn. If you have a water filter system for the regular faucet, you may want to supply the dispenser with filtered water as well.
Hot water dispensers are very convenient for preparing hot drinks, sauces and soups, for warming baby bottles, or filling a hot water bottle. They range in price from about $100 to $400, plus installation.
Q—Will marble and granite countertops stain?
A—While stone is among the most durable materials for countertops, it is porous and will stain. Most stone distributors recommend using special sealers to minimize staining potential. Marble is the most susceptible, especially to products containing alcohol or oils, such as liquor, fingernail polish, and wine. Granites, while less susceptible, will also stain. Many of the stains in granite affect the surface polish only, and can be re-polished to remove the stain. Stains in marble can be removed with a poultice, which is available from the stone fabricators, and locally at McGuckin Hardware. It may take up to a month to draw out the stain, but I have seen amazing results.
Landscaping/Outdoor Concerns
Q—We’re building a new fence and will be digging post holes soon. How can we find out if there are any buried utilities in the way?
A—Anyone who damages an underground utility such as electric lines, cable television, telephone, sewer, gas, or water lines is liable for damages. Fortunately, you can protect yourself by making a single telephone call to an organization which will notify all utilities in the state. The utility owners are then required to mark the location of their utilities within two business days so you can avoid them with your excavations or post holes.
Simply dial 811, or logon to www.uncc2.org for the Utility Notification Center of Colorado, at least three business days before you dig. Exceptions may be made for shorter notification time in case of true emergency. You will need the following information: Phone number and address, alternate phone, type of work to be done, whether explosives will be involved, nearest intersecting street, location on the property of the excavation, date of proposed excavation, and legal description of the property if available.
Mark your proposed excavation on the ground with white paint. The utilities will mark their lines on the ground according to the following color code: Red=electric power, Yellow=gas, orange=communications cables, Blue=water lines, Green=sewer lines, purple=irrigation lines (you will be responsible for your own irrigation lines). The location marks are accurate within 18” on either side of the line. Any excavation closer than this should be done carefully by hand. The location is valid for thirty days or as long as visible, whichever is less.
Q—The brick planter box on our house has a white, chalky stain on it. We have tried scrubbing it off, but it keeps coming back. What causes it, and what can be done about it?
A—The white stain is called efflorescence, and is caused by salts that have been transported from within the brick and mortar by moisture in the brick, and deposited on the surface by evaporation. The stains are cosmetic, and not harmful. Professionals remove efflorescence with diluted muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, and a pressure washer or a brush. I should caution you that muriatic acid is dangerous, and should be used only with extreme caution.
The moisture in the brick, however, is a problem. It can destroy the wall by freezing and spalling, and must be eliminated to prevent damage, and further staining. In your case, the moisture is likely due to missing or ineffective waterproofing of the inside of the planter walls. When the soil in your planter is wetted, either by rain, snow, or irrigation, the bricks and mortar absorb moisture and carry salts to the surface.
Here are three possible solutions:
1) Remove all the plants and soil and carefully waterproof the inside of the planter, providing “weep-holes” (openings in the mortar joint) in the bottom courses of brick. The clean and dry brick can then be coated with a waterproofing compound by brush or sprayer, or covered with a membrane such as EPDM or “Ice and Water Shield”. Fill most of the planter with gravel to insure good drainage. Use of a permeable filter (made just for this purpose) against the inside of the brick will also improve drainage
2) Remove enough soil to install separate water-tight containers to contain your plants and the damp soil. I’ve seen them made of copper or galvanized metal. They could also be constructed of wood and lined with a waterproof membrane.
3) Abandon the plants, and cover the planters with a stone cap to shed the water.
Q—What is the liquid that I’ve seen concrete contractors spray on the surface of concrete sidewalks and driveways?
A—The product you refer to is probably a curing agent. Its purpose is to retard the rapid evaporation of the water in the concrete through the surface. Curing is the process of setting or hardening during which the water in the mix helps the chemicals bind together and strengthen. The process is slow, and water is critical. It takes three to seven days for concrete to harden sufficiently to support vehicle traffic, and 28 days to reach it’s full strength. Up to 50% of concrete’s strength can be lost if it is not properly cured.
You will sometimes see concrete covered with plastic sheets or wet burlap. These are alternate techniques for keeping the concrete damp while it cures properly.
Q—Our redwood decks that were beautiful when new have become stained, almost black. Is there any way to restore the original color? Should we use a sealer or finish to protect the redwood?
A—The stains on your redwood are most likely caused by a combination of dirt, mildew, iron stains, and the reddish-brown tannins that occur naturally in redwood. There are several options for cleaning that can result in dramatic improvement.
Many old-timers swear by a good scrubbing with a diluted solution of Tide laundry detergent applied liberally with a scrub brush and “elbow grease”. According to the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association (WRCLA), a better result can be obtained by the use of a solution of sodium percarbonate, the active ingredient in some of the color-safe laundry bleaches. This is effective against mildew stains and the graying caused by exposure to the sun. Follow this up with a diluted solution of oxalic acid to remove the tannin and iron stains. Oxalic acid in crystal form is available in local hardware stores. In concentrated form it is caustic, so be sure to follow all label instructions carefully, and avoid contact with any body parts you like.
Although stains on redwood are cosmetic, and don’t indicate structural problems, they are indicative of elements that will damage wood—moisture, mildew, and ultraviolet light. Redwood and cedar dealers recommend use of a sealer to mitigate the damage. There are many effective sealers on the market, making it difficult to find the right choice. Look for one that offers water resistance combined with a mildewcide and UV protection. Expect to reapply every two or three years. For more information online, you can find details at the WRCLA website at http://www.wrcla.org/spec/cr/cleaners.html
Q—Our concrete driveway has sunken near house, and water now ponds there. Is there any way to fix the problem without removing and replacing the driveway?
A—The dirt backfill near your house has settled, causing the concrete slab to settle with it. Your driveway is a prime candidate for “mud jacking”. The process involves drilling a few small holes in the slab and injecting slurry (mud) under pressure to fill the void and float the slab to the original elevation. This can be done very accurately, and the holes are inconspicuously plugged with concrete.
While there is some risk of causing cracks in the slab, the chance to avoid an expensive replacement makes the relatively small cost a good gamble. Look under Mud Jacking Contractors in the Yellow Pages. A typical small job should run about $300-$500.
Lighting
Q—While touring a parade of homes recently, we saw an etched glass room divider that appeared to glow from within. We couldn’t detect any light fixtures shining on it. Do you know how they did it?
A—I’ll bet the glass in question was illuminated with fiber optics. This technology uses a high-intensity light source, or “illuminator”, coupled with acrylic fiber optic cable and special fixtures as small as 5/8” x 5/8” cross section to deliver intense light in creative lighting situations. The illuminator is a rectangular box that is located in a convenient but remote location to mask the noise of the cooling fan. The cable can run as much as thirty feet from the source. Since the cable is non-electric, it can be embedded in the mortar of a glass block wall, or inside aquariums, swimming pools, or display cabinets, or under stair treads—and there is only one bulb to replace.
One manufacturer specializing in fiber optic lighting is Lightly Expressed Ltd.. Their website is www.lightlyexpressed.com., and they are represented in Denver by M/H Lighting Associates, Inc., phone 303/573-0222.
Owner-Supplied Materials
Q—We’re going to build a new house this year, and would like to supply some of the materials in the house to save money. Will contractors let us do this?
A—Many contractors are willing to negotiate such an arrangement within reason—if you accept responsibility for the installation of the items you supply, and the project schedule is not impacted by late arrival or installation problems.
Builders and subcontractors are naturally reluctant to be responsible for installing expensive items for which they’ve made no profit. In many cases, the small profit from installation alone is not enough to warrant the risk of damage and warranty responsibility. The risk of schedule delays is significant, also, because time is money—for the contractor and the homeowner.
A more important consideration is the division of responsibility. If a product supplied by the homeowner fails to perform—such as floor tile that cracks—it can be difficult to determine whether it was the product or the installation that was defective. By having the same company supply and install the product, finger-pointing is eliminated, because the same party is responsible for both material and installation. This peace of mind is probably worth the contractor’s markup on the material.
Paint/Drywall Concerns
Q—We had some drywall patching done on our kitchen ceiling to repair water damage. The texture seems to match well, but the paint is dull where the new texture is. Any suggestions?
A—The phenomenon is called “flashing”, and is caused by a difference in the speed of drying between adjacent areas. This can be due to objects just under the surface, such as studs or nail heads that conduct heat differently and cause the paint to dry at different rates. It can also be caused by humidity that condenses on cooler surfaces.
In your case, it was likely caused by a difference in porosity between the old painted ceiling and the new drywall texture. The un-primed texture allowed the new paint to soak in and dry faster than the surrounding area, causing it to dry with a noticeably flatter sheen.
Another coat of paint applied evenly over the entire ceiling should eliminate the problem. In extreme cases, it is sometime necessary to re-prime the entire ceiling first with a product such at Fresh Start from Benjamin Moore, followed up be one or more finish coats.
Q—We live in an old house. I’m pregnant, and concerned about lead based paint. How can I find out if our house has lead based paint, and how do I remove it?
A—Many homes built prior to 1978 contain some lead in the paint. Prior to 1950, almost half of all paint contained large amounts of lead. In 1978, the Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of lead in paint for residential application. Lead was most common and concentrated in the type of paint used on wood trim, such as windows, doors, baseboards, and door and window casing. Since you described your house as “old”, there is a good chance it contains some lead. It’s worth noting that paint is not the only source of this poison in our diet. Until recently, lead also was also present in gasoline and the solder used in copper water piping.
Lead-based paint that is in good condition is not usually hazardous. The real danger comes from ingesting or inhaling dust or paint chips containing lead. You can get lead in your body if you inhale dust from sanding or disturbing painted surfaces, eating chips of contaminated paint, inhaling fumes from paint that has been heated with a torch, or putting hands or other objects covered with lead dust in your mouth.
Babies and small children are most as risk of ingesting lead paint dust or chips, and are also most susceptible to poisoning. This is because their growing bodies absorb lead more readily, and their nervous systems are more sensitive to lead. Children with lead poisoning can suffer headaches, slowed growth, damage to their nervous system, hearing problems, and learning difficulties.
Symptoms in adults include high blood pressure, difficulties with pregnancy, nerve disorders, reproductive problems, memory and concentration problems.
The only way to know if you have problems with lead in your home is to have a lead risk assessment performed by a trained professional. While consumer test kits are widely available, they are not always accurate, and their results can be hard to interpret. If testing discovers a significant lead risk, hire a person trained in lead abatement to remove the hazard. An unqualified person may actually make the problem worse by creating dust and spreading it around.
As a temporary measure, you can reduce exposure to lead by cleaning floors, window sills and other surfaces weekly with a mop or sponge and warm water with a general purpose cleaner. Keep children’s play areas especially clean, and keep children from chewing on painted window sills or wood trim. Clean or remove shoes before entering the home to avoid tracking lead indoors. Lead can contaminate the soil near the house and enter on the shoes, or be ingested by children.Wash children’s hands frequently, especially before meals, and wash their toys, pacifiers and stuffed animals frequently.
If you suspect you or your family have been exposed to lead, a simple blood test can determine the level of lead in your body. These tests are inexpensive and available from many clinics. Ask your doctor. Tests are especially important for smaller children, aged six months to one year.
For more information about lead, you can call the Lead Information Clearinghouse at 1-800-424-Lead, or the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-LEAD-FYI. Request the free pamphlet entitled “Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home”, pamphlet # EPA 747-K-94-001. Information is available on the internet at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/lead.html.
We are an EPA Certified Lead-Safe Contractor which means you can trust us to know how to handle lead paint on your home if you suspect the use of lead paint. See the green section of our blog for more information.
Plumbing
Q—Our hot water heat is noisy, and disturbs our sleep. The plumber told us the noise is normal. Is there anything we can do about it?
A—There are three types of sound that hot water heating makes—hum, gurgle, and pop. Humming is usually caused by vibrations from the circulator pump. I’ve seen this problem with pumps that are larger than necessary, and with pumps that are wearing out. Some plumbers find it easier to install a pump that is too large than to do the calculations necessary for proper sizing. If your pump is correctly sized and in good condition, it may be possible to mask the vibration by judicious use of rubber gaskets and shock mounts to isolate the pump’s vibration from the piping and structural members of the house.
Gurgling sounds are an indication of air bubbles circulating through the pipes with the water. Most systems have air scrubbers that are designed to trap these bubbles and vent them to the atmosphere. It’s possible yours is missing or faulty.
Popping sounds are the result of thermal expansion and contraction of the pipes as they heat and cool. If the moving pipes rub against the floor or wall framing, they will pop each time the heat cycles. The only solution is to locate the pinch spot and relieve it. This may involve cutting exploratory holes in the walls or floor. Since this can be a costly solution, most homeowners decide to live with the noise, and consider it part of the character of the house.
Q—We just bought a home with a septic system. Is there anything special
we need to know or maintenance to perform?
A—A septic system consists of two main parts. The septic tank is a
watertight vault, usually concrete, that receives the wastewater and
separates the solids from the liquid, while digesting the solids. The
liquids discharge out the top into a leach field where they either
percolate into the ground, or evaporate into the atmosphere, depending on
the design. Some systems do both.
It’s a good idea not to discharge anything into your waste stream that is
difficult for the bacteria in the septic tank to digest, such as paper,
because they will fill the tank and require it to be emptied more often.
You can buy special toilet paper which is biodegradable, to reduce the
frequency of pumping out the tank. Special enzymes are available that you
can flush down the toilet to improve the digestion. Avoid flushing
compounds such as paint thinner that can kill the friendly bugs in the
tank. Companies that clean and empty septic tanks are listed under
“Septic Tanks & Systems-Cleaning” in the Yellow Pages. They can recommend
a service interval for your situation.
It’s also a good idea to avoid irrigating the leach field or fields since
that will tend to saturate them and reduce their effectiveness. In some
cases, there will be two fields with a manual valve you will need to
operate to alternate between the two fields, giving one a chance to “rest”
or dry out. Typical switching interval is every six months. If you have
such a system, and you forget to switch fields, you’ll know about it when
your sewer backs up.
Rules, Regulations
“Major Site Review” Restrictions
Q—We’ve heard about unincorporated Boulder County’s 1,000 square foot rule for triggering a “major site review”. What is that all about. If you add 900 square feet, how long must you wait before you can add on again?
A—They call it simply “site plan review” (SPR), but it is definitely major. I know people who would gladly trade the experience for a kidney stone. In fact, it has spawned a cottage industry of people who know the process and will handle it for you. The rules are outlined in Article 4-8 of the Boulder County Land Use Code, which is available at the Boulder County Land Use Department, 2045 13th Street, or on their website: http://co.boulder.co.us/lu/
The section of the code relevant to your question is shown below:
4-802(B)–Site plan review is not required if the permit is only
needed for:
1.Construction work that does not change the
use or increase the floor area of a building lot
by more than 1,000 square feet over that
which existed or which had a building permit
approved as of September 8, 1998 (except
that Site Plan Review will be required for
structural additions of any size requiring a
building permit when the site is located within
a Natural Landmark, Natural Area or their
associated 250′ buffer as described in the
Environmental Resources Element of the
Comprehensive Plan and shown on the Zoning
District Maps of Boulder County).
In simple terms, any additions to your property, or permits issued prior to September 8, 1998 have been “grandfathered in”. When subsequent additions accumulate to a total of more than 1,000 square feet, it triggers site plan review.
It is important to note that “floor area” includes garages and covered porches. It also includes basements, whether finished or not, but does not include areas with ceiling height of five feet or less. Existing basements can be finished without counting against the 1,000 square foot threshold because it is considered existing floor area. If this is confusing, the county has friendly and helpful staff available to help you through the maze. (303) 441-3930.
Sound Insulation
Q—Our home has a bathroom above our dining room. Every time someone flushes the toilet, it sounds like Archie Bunker’s house from the old television program “All in the Family”. Is there anything we can do to quiet the situation?
A—The offending noise is caused by water rushing through PVC (plastic)
waste pipe either running over your ceiling, down the wall, or both.
Plastic pipe is common, relatively inexpensive, and effective, but is also
notoriously noisy under the conditions you describe.
The solution, unfortunately, requires you to open the wall or ceiling to
get access to the pipe, and either replace it with cast iron pipe, sound
insulate the pipe, or both. Cast iron waste pipe is approximately seven
times more effective at masking the sound due to it’s density and rubber
gasket joints, and is a good choice for the situation you describe. The
cast iron industry advertises their product as “The Quiet Pipe”.
I’ve seen significant improvement by wrapping PVC pipe loosely with
fiberglass insulation and filling the rest of the cavity with fiberglass
batts to minimize reverberation. Adding sound insulation board before
replacing the wall surface will also help. If your wall or ceiling are
drywall, try using 5/8” instead of the usual ½” to add a little acoustic
mass.
Sound Insulation between Rooms
Q—What is the best method for providing sound insulation between rooms?
A—There are many effective techniques that can be used individually or together, depending on the level of soundproofing required, the type of sound, and the budget. It is important to assess all avenues of sound transmission and plan a coordinated effort in order to be effective.
Sound can be transmitted directly in the air, such as through the gap under a door, or transferred through other materials, such as the vibrating panel of drywall on the wall between the rooms, or the hardwood or tile floor between levels of the house. In homes with forced-air heating, sound can easily be transmitted through the heat ducting, or the cold-air return plenums. These plenums are often openings through the walls of adjacent rooms with a grille over them.
Here are a few ideas for tackling various sound problems:
- “Unfaced” fiberglass batts installed in the space between wall studs are effective against higher frequency sounds.
- If you are building new walls or can replace existing ones, stagger the 2×4 studs using a 2×6 top and bottom plate so that no stud is in common with the drywall on both sides. The fiberglass batts can be woven between the studs.
- Use 5/8” drywall instead of the standard 1/2”. The extra acoustic mass will absorb more of the sound.
- Install a 1/2” layer of “soundboard” on both sides of the walls before drywall.
- Use solid-core doors instead of hollow.
- Check with a heating contractor to see if ducts can be fitted with sound-absorbing materials inside to prevent sound transmission between rooms. Ductwork can sometimes be interrupted with flexible sections for the same reason. Also rework return plenums to add sound baffles or relocate to prevent direct openings between rooms.
- To soundproof doors, gaskets and automatic thresholds can be added to form a sound-resistant seal.
- Metal resilient channel, sometimes referred to as z-channel, can be installed between drywall and the studs or joists to minimize transmission through walls or floors/ceilings.
- Carpet with pad is better for quieting the sound of footsteps on the floor above. If hard floors are a must, a layer of Gypcrete or cement backer under the finished floor will help.
It may be impractical and unnecessary to eliminate all sound transmission. Try the easiest and least expensive alternatives first, adding more if necessary. If all else fails, there are some excellent noise-canceling headphones now on the market!
Spring Considerations
Q—Every Spring, we get water in our basement. Is there anything we can do to prevent this from happening again this year?
A—In my experience, most water problems in basements are caused by improper channeling of surface water away from the foundation. If water from downspouts, roof runoff, or adjacent landscaping is allowed to pond near the foundation, it can saturate the relatively loose backfill, and enter the basement through the joint between the floor and the foundation, or through cracks in the wall. This problem is exacerbated if lawn or landscape irrigation causes this backfill to become pre-saturated from the irrigation. In a downpour, water can also fill the area wells around basement windows, and leak around the window.
Geotechnical (soils) engineers typically recommend a minimum 10 percent slope for at least ten feet away from a foundation to provide adequate drainage (12” in ten feet). Due to settling of the backfill near the house, and dams caused by landscaping and sidewalks, few homes retain this drainage over the years.
If possible, restore proper drainage near the house by adding and compacting clay soil near the foundation. Remove, or cut channels in and landscape items that result in damming near the foundation. Also, clean the gutters and downspouts to minimize the possibility of gutters overflowing during rainstorms, and extend downspouts to discharge well away from the foundation. Remove any plant materials that require watering, and adjust sprinkler heads so that they don’t water near the house.
If the source of water is from a rising water table, if may be possible to catch the water before entry with a submersible sump pump in a sump pit under the basement floor. A large enough pump can locally lower the water table, preventing the water from entering the home. Be sure to discharge the pump effluent in the yard, well away from the foundation. It is illegal to discharge ground water into the sanitary sewer system.
Structural Concerns
Q—Our contractor plans to use “Scissor trusses” to create a vaulted ceiling in our family-room addition. What is a scissor truss?
A—You’ve probably seen more conventional roof trusses being installed on new homes under construction. They are engineered and factory-fabricated structural members designed to effectively span wide areas, often without center support. Typically with a triangular shape, they incorporate the roof rafters and ceiling joists in a single element, strengthened by diagonal bracing.
Conventional vaulted ceilings require either a structural ridge beam to carry the load at the top of the rafters, or collar ties and/or wall buttresses to resist the outward thrust of rafters trying to rotate down and out. These structures, often seen in churches and auditoriums, are expensive to build, and a challenge to ventilate properly because of a lack of attic space between ceiling and roof.
A scissor truss gets its name from the shape. Instead of a flat bottom cord, it is angled to create a sloped ceiling, but at a somewhat flatter pitch than the roof. This forms an acute angle, or scissor shape between members. It might have a roof slope of 6” per foot (6/12 pitch) and a ceiling pitch of 4/12. Such trusses can span wide distances without support or buttresses, and create a small attic space that can be easily ventilated.
Ventilation
Q–Is My Attic Fan Poisoning Me?
A–An alert reader, Karl Williamson of Boulder, has contacted me with a safety concern related to attic fans. He referred me to an article which details a study conducted on the safety of these fans. This study concluded that under certain conditions, attic fans can cause deadly carbon monoxide to be drawn into the home due to de-pressurization of the house. This down-drafting of flue gases can result in lethal concentrations of carbon monoxide. In addition, the study cited negligible practical benefits of their use in cooling. As a result, I am recommending they not be used. Thank you, Mr. Williamson, for calling this issue to our attention. For a copy of the article, send me a stamped self-addressed envelope with a request for the “attic fan” article.
The same potential for down-drafting gas appliances and fireplaces exists with the use of whole-house fans or powerful kitchen exhaust fans without an adequate supply of outside air from open doors and windows. These powerful fans require a tremendous supply of air, and if not provided by several large openings, will also introduce toxic flue gasses into the home.
Q—Recently, I’ve noticed a musty smell of damp earth in our crawl space. Is this serious? What can be done about it?
A—In the spring, when the rains and irrigation cause the water table to rise, many crawl spaces get damp, and begin to smell. In extreme cases, the humidity can get high enough to support the growth of mold and mildew, which can damage the wood framing and sheathing. For this reason, the national building codes require adequate ventilation be provided. The requirement of the Uniform Building Code (UBC), which is used in Boulder and Boulder County, require not less than one square foot of vent per 150 square feet of crawl-space.
Many homes have vents located around the perimeter of the house that are designed with operable louvers. These are usually closed in the winter to keep crawl spaces warmer, and to prevent frozen pipes, but need to be opened in the spring to provide ventilation. I recommend you check for the presence of these vents, and insure that they are open. The most common type have a small lever that slides from side to side to open and close the lens. If your home is lacking vents, or there are not enough, they can usually be added relatively easily by a skilled craftsperson.
In extreme conditions, it may be necessary to provide a power vent operated by a humidistat. These can be installed by heating and air conditioning contractors, and will require a fan ducted to the outside, and adequate vents to provide makeup air for replacing the stale, humid air that is being exhausted. In some cases, it is necessary to cover all exposed earth with plastic sheeting to minimize the evaporation of moisture from the damp earth. Be sure to check and correct any sources of surface water around the house that may contribute to the problem, such as downspouts or overflowing gutters that dump or pond near the foundation.
Wood Flooring
Q—The new wood flooring I had installed this past summer has cracks developing between the boards—some as much as 1/16” wide. Why is this happening? Should the cracks be filled?
A—The cracks are caused by shrinkage of the wood as it adapts to Colorado’s extremely dry climate. Most finish-grade lumber, such as flooring, is kiln-dried in ovens to a moisture content of about 6% by weight—dry enough in most states to prevent significant shrinkage from further drying. Colorado is dry in the extreme, however, and provides special challenges for any product made from wood, including furniture, doors, and pianos. The problem is exacerbated by forced air heat, which bakes even more moisture out of the air, and circulates this dry air through the home during the winter heating season—acting exactly like a drying kiln.
Good news—when the furnace goes dormant next spring, the humidity level in the house will rise, and the wood will expand again. Typically, all the cracks that open in winter close up in summer, and disappear. For this reason, it is not practical to fill the cracks in the winter, because all the filler will pop out in the summer as the cracks close.
More good news—it is easy to add a humidifier to forced-air furnaces, since you already have the fan and ductwork to distribute the moisture. Raising and stabilizing the humidity in your home will reduce or eliminate the seasonal movement of all the wood, and improve your family’s health as well—skin behaves a lot like wood.
Q—We’re planning to install new wood floors. Since they’re so expensive, we’d like to get a good installation job, especially avoiding or minimizing cracks between boards. Do you have any advice for us?
A—The key to a good flooring installation is the control of moisture and humidity. Wood expands as it absorbs moisture and shrinks as it dries, making it prone to movement as the humidity in the home changes with the seasons.
Here in Colorado, our climate is extremely dry, and the average moisture content of interior wood is between 6 and 7 percent moisture content by weight, corresponding to an average relative humidity of around 30 percent. The average moisture content of kiln-dried flooring is 6-9 percent when it leaves the kiln, but the flooring can absorb more moisture during transport or storage. Therefore, it is important to acclimatize the wood in our local environment in order to stabilize at nominal local conditions.
Each building has it’s own microclimate. Some have humidifiers that maintain a constant relative humidity of 50%. Others have average interior humidity of 20% or less. If flooring with high moisture content is installed and then dries, cracks will develop. If dry flooring is installed in a humid environment, it will swell and buckle. Therefore, it is best to store the flooring in it’s destination location for sufficient time to allow it to stabilize before installation. The only way to know if it has stabilized is to test many representative locations with a moisture meter, and average the readings.
Installation over damp crawl-spaces or over concrete slabs on grade present special difficulties, and may require installation of vapor barriers or ventilation.
Cracks, or open joints, are normal with wood floors, and can’t be eliminated entirely. With 2 ¼” wood planks, cracks as wide as the thickness of a dime are common during the winter heating season, and usually close during the more humid summer months. Wider floor planks will yield fewer joints, and consequently fewer cracks, but each crack will be wider—as much as five times as wide. This fact makes narrower boards a good choice in our climate.
For more information on wood flooring, contact the National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Assn. at P.O. Box 3009, Memphis, Tennessee, 38173-0009 Telephone: 901-526-5016 FAX: 901-526-7022, or visit them on the web at: http://www.nofma.org/ or eMail: info@NOFMA.org While their site is specific to oak flooring, most of the issues they discuss are the same with any species of flooring.
Sub-Flooring Moisture Problems
Q—We are having a house built, and are concerned about the plywood
subflooring. It has gotten wet several times, and is starting to look
weathered. Should we be concerned about it deteriorating?
A—Subflooring sheathing, both plywood and oriented strand board (OSB) are
designed with water-resistant glues to resist the amount of rain and snow
typically encountered during construction. I’ve seen floors that had been
exposed to the weather for months perform flawlessly. On the other hand,
it’s common practice to coat the floor with a waterproofing soon after
it’s put down. We often use Thompson’s Waterseal for this purpose,
applying it with a roller. If it’s going to be awhile before your house
is under roof, it might be a good idea to coat yours.
Windows & Doors
Q—Can you please describe the difference between a “simulated divided-light” window and a “true divided-light” window?
A—“True divided-light” or “authentic divided-light” are labels used by manufacturers to describe their modern version of the window which was the standard at the turn of the century, but with modern innovations such as “Low-E” coatings, and insulated glass. These terms describe windows where each pane is separate, and surrounded by structural dividing muntins, usually made of wood. If a pane of an authentic divided-light window is broken, it can be replaced without disturbing the other panes.
To effect significant cost savings, and improve the energy efficiency of windows, most manufacturers produce windows with non-divided-light panes, usually with insulated glass. To recreate the appearance of divided-lights, they have devised various versions of applied muntins, with various degrees of sophistication and visual appeal. I refer to these as fake divided-lights.
On the low end of the spectrum are plastic or aluminum strips glued to the glass. In the middle of the spectrum are snap-on wood muntins that remove for finishing and glass washing. At the top, heavy wood muntins are applied on both sides of the glass, and have a quality look. If you look closely at these fake divided-light windows, however, you can see between the muntins when you look at an angle—especially noticeable with insulated glass where the muntins are separated by a space of 5/8” or more.
Relatively new on the scene are “simulated divided-light” windows with heavy wood muntins applied on both sides, and metal spacer bars set between the glass in perfect registration with the muntins. Even upon close inspection, they appear to be the “real thing.” The manufacturing technique provides a genuine look while still effecting some economy of cost, and improved energy efficiency. These windows strike a good balance between the look of yesteryear and the efficiency of modern technology. When it comes to cleaning, however, multi-pane windows are definitely multi-pain windows.
Q—We installed a new front door last summer, and it has warped so much it won’t close properly—more than an inch. What went wrong?
A—Wood will warp when one side dries out more than the other, or if the finish on one side shrinks more than the other side. As wood dries, it shrinks, and expands again as it absorbs moisture. Door manufacturers recommend that all edges of doors (including the top and bottom), as well as the holes for doorknobs or peep-holes, be sealed with paint or other finish to prevent moisture penetration. It is also important to apply the same finish in the same number of coats to balance any shrinkage or moisture penetration on the two sides. Many manufacturers state that their warranty if void if these precautions are not observed.
Winter Considerations
Q—Help! We have a ceiling leak in our cathedral ceiling every winter. We’ve had it checked by a roofer who says the roof is fine. Any suggestions?
A—The water damage is likely due to humidity inside the house condensing in the cold rafter space (usually the underside of the roof sheeting) and dripping on the insulation and drywall as the weather warms up. This is probably caused by a missing or inadequate vapor barrier, and poor ventilation of the rafter space. If you have any recessed light fixtures, they would exacerbate the problem by allowing more water vapor to penetrate the ceiling cavity.
While the solutions are easily implemented during construction, it can be difficult to fix after the fact. If the ceiling cavity is not full of insulation, it may be possible to add soffit and ridge vents to allow the humidity to dissipate. There are some new paints on the market that are effective vapor barriers to prevent migration into the ceiling cavity. You may also be able to buy cover lenses with vapor-proof gaskets for the can lights. If you have a humidifier, it would help to lower the setting of the humidistat on very cold days. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to remove the drywall ceiling and provide the proper ventilation and barrier. If left unchecked, the moisture can cause considerable structural damage to the framing and roof sheeting.
Q—Is it too late in the year to start construction projects because of bad weather?
A—Since Colorado is blessed with so many sunny days in the winter, we are able to build year-round with only short delays during the worst weather. The biggest problem is with foundations. Once frost is in the ground deeper than a few inches, it is very difficult (but not impossible) to excavate and pour foundations and concrete slabs. When the foundations are in, however, most construction work can proceed with only occasional delay. There is some extra cost associated with lost efficiency and weather protection, but many clients feel it is worth the cost to meet their schedules.
Q—On the coldest days, some of the rooms in my house are cold, while others are warm. We have a forced-air system. Is there anything we can do?
A—There are several things you can try. Many older homes have inadequate cold-air returns. A furnace can’t force air into a room unless there is a way for the same amount of air to exit the room. In large, open areas of the house, such as living rooms and kitchens, the air can usually find its way back to the furnace via a cold-air return duct. In many homes, there are only a couple of these returns, in central locations such as hallways.
A room with a closed door, and no return of its own, will not be able to heat properly unless the door is left open. If the doors to these rooms are cut about 1 ½” short of the floor, however, the gap under the door will allow air to flow under the door on it’s way back to the furnace, and allow heat to flow into the room. Alternatives include installing new returns, or cutting grilles into the wall between closed rooms and an area with access to a return, such as a hallway.
You may also improve the situation by “balancing” your heat registers. Most registers have louvers that can be opened or closed to adjust the amount of heat they allow through. By closing-down the registers in the warmest rooms and fully opening the ones in the coldest rooms, you will force the heat to rooms that need it the most.
In houses that don’t heat evenly, the location of the thermostat is also an important consideration. The thermostat will control the temperature of the room it is located in. If the thermostat is located in a room that heats well, it will be satisfied and shut-down the furnace before the other rooms are warm enough. Likewise, if located in the colder rooms, it will keep the furnace going long after the warmest rooms have become uncomfortably warm. In this case, locate the thermostat in the room where you live the most.
Any qualified heating contractor should be able to analyze and improve the heating of your home, probably at modest expense.
Q—We’ve heard about radiant floor heating, and wonder if it would be a good idea for our whole-house remodeling project.
A—I’ll list some of the pros and cons, and let you decide:
Cons:
- Radiant heat can be more expensive to install—as much as 20-50% or more.
- Radiant heat does not provide ductwork for use in air conditioning or humidification.
- If your home currently has a forced-air furnace, you will need to replace it with a boiler.
- Radiant floor heat can cause excessive shrinkage of wood floors due to increased drying of the floor caused by the heat.
- Radiant heat responds very slowly to changes in thermostat settings, and is not generally compatible with set-back thermostats, or frequent adjustments.
Pros:
- Radiant heat tends to be more comfortable, because warm floors keep your feet warm.
- Energy costs can be as much as 20-30 lower than conventional forced-air heat.
- It is easier to maintain healthy humidity levels with radiant heat
- Homes stay cleaner without the furnace blower distributing dust throughout the house.
- Radiant heat is quieter than forced air because there are no blowers.
- Radiant heat is more even and less drafty.
- There are no heat registers or cold-air returns to disrupt furniture placement or wall surfaces.
- Radiant heat is easily zoned to allow each room or area to have it’s own thermostatic control.
- Warm floors feel great to bare feet on a cold night.
For what it’s worth, the next time I build or remodel a home for myself, I’m using radiant floor heat.
Q—We have hot-water baseboard heat in our home. We’re planning to add a master bathroom addition, and would like to install radiant heat in the floor. Can we use the existing boiler?
A—Assuming your boiler has the surplus capacity to handle the extra heating load, you should be able to heat your bathroom floors by using a mixing valve to moderate the water temperature. Radiant floor heating requires somewhat cooler water than baseboard radiators to prevent your floors from overheating, and the mixing valve dilutes the boiler’s water with cooler water to allow you to mix the two systems on the same boiler.
If your boiler can’t handle the extra load, consider using electric radiant floor mats that are designed to be installed on top of the wood sub-floor, just under the finished flooring. For tile floors (ideal for radiant heat) it can be installed in the mortar bed. The room temperature is controlled by a wall-mounted thermostat. You’ll enjoy warm tiles on your bare feet.
Q—Last spring I had a flood in my basement from a broken water pipe. The plumber said it was caused by a frozen yard faucet. Why did it wait until spring to leak?
A—“Frost proof” sillcocks are designed with a long extension tube to allow the water valve to shut off deep inside the wall where the heat of the house will keep the water from freezing. If the garden hose is not removed in winter, or it has a slow leak, some water can remain in the extension tube where it will expand upon freezing, and split the tube. This won’t cause any leak as long as the faucet is shut off, because the valve is located beyond the split, further inside the wall. The next time the faucet is used, probably in the spring, the water will pour out of the leak, inside the wall or ceiling.
To prevent this in the future, remove your garden hoses in the winter. Consider replacing your sillcocks with ones that will drain the extension tubes even with the hose attached. They cost a little more, but are well worth it.
Do you have a building or remodeling question? Contact Us.
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